VEM.YTIHI1MG FOR TIE LAW! AMD GOLF CO 



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HOW TO MAKE A LAWN-Continaed 



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14H920 



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8, Departatfit of Agrici 



GRADING. 



One of the first conditions for a perfect lawn is, that the land 

 be perfectly drained either naturally or artificially. If the sub- 

 soil is sand or gravel, so the water can quickly pass through it, then there will 

 be no need for artificial drains, but if there is a stratum of adhesive clay for a 

 subsoil then drains are indispensable every fifteen or twenty feet. As the 

 formation of the lawn is the foundation of all subsequent operations, it is im- 

 perative that it be carefully done; for if badly done at first it cannot be 

 changed or altered, unless to the great detriment of trees or shrubs that have 

 been planted or flower beds or walks that have been laid out. 



The first thing to be done is to get the ground shaped to the desired grade, 

 taking care in grading that when hills or rocks are removed, sufficient subsoil 

 is also removed to be replaced with top soil, so that at least five inches of good 

 soil will overlay the whole in all places; and where trees are to be planted there 

 should be twice that depth of good soil. When the grading is finished, if the 

 nature of the ground requires it, drains should be laid where necessary; then the 

 whole should be thoroughly plowed, a subsoil following in the wake of the 

 common plow, until it is completely pulverized. A heavy harrow should then 

 be applied until the surface is thoroughly fined down; all stones, roots, etc., 

 should be removed, so that a smooth surface may be obtained. We have used, 

 with great effect and saving of labor the " Imported Scotch Chain Harrow," 

 which fines and levels the land equal to a steel rake; and wherever large areas 

 are in preparation for lawns, or in fact for any field culture, requiring a fine 

 smooth surface, this implement will be found to be of great value. 



For small plots, of course, digging, trenching and raking must be done 

 instead of plowing, subsoiling and harrowing, and the surface after sowing should 

 be patted down with the back of a spade or 'rolled with a roller. 

 FERTILIZING. ^^ e q ues ti°n of fertilizers for the lawn is an important 

 one. Perhaps the best way to apply well-rotted stable 

 manure is to spread it thick enough to cover the ground after plowing or 

 digging, and then harrow or rake it in. Though a little more costly, the 

 best plan to insure permanency for the lawn is to use from 1,500 to 2,000 

 lbs. per acre of coarse Ground Bone (see page 14) or better still, about the 

 half the above quantity of bone and the other half of the Henderson Lawn 

 Enricher, or in that proportion over lesser areas. The bone decomposes 

 slowly, giving lasting enrichment; while the Lawn Enricher gives immediate 

 results, the combination of these two fertilizers is perfect in effect, insuring a 

 " velvet lawn," under ordinary circumstances, for several years 

 •without further application of manure. To insure even distri- 

 bution, the fertilizers could be applied in the manner recom- 

 mended for sowing lawn seed on this page. The quantity of ferti- 

 lizer required for each 8 ft. x 8 ft. square is 1\ lbs., or 25 lbs. for 

 10 squares. 



When the land has not been fertilized before sowing, 

 it is necessary to use top-dressing of manure each 

 season to keep up the fertility of the lawn, and 

 nothing is better for this purpose than 

 well-rotted, short stable manure to spread 

 over it late in the fall (November or Decem- 

 ber) enough to partially cover the surface. 

 On no account should fresh stable manure 

 be used, or the lawn will be very apt to be 

 ruined by the introduction of weed seeds. 

 This should be allowed to remain on until 

 such time as the grass shows signs of starting 

 in the Spring, when the rough portion should 

 be raked off and a heavy roller applied, so 

 that the surface of the lawn be rendered 



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smooth and firm for the mower. If the top-dressing of well-rotted stable ma 

 nure has been omitted in the Fall, fine bone dust mixed with finely sifted 

 wood ashes, in equal parts, may be sown on the lawn about as thick as sand 

 is usually strewn on the floor, and rolled down, and we advise that the lawn 

 be rolled several times during the Spring. 



SEEDING ^ n ^e latitude of New York the seed may be sown any time 

 i,VJ ' from March 20th to June 20th. If the ground has been well 

 prepared, and the weather is not too dry, a good lawn will be in evidence in 6 to 

 10 weeks time. Under very congenial conditions, new lawns are often ready for 

 mowing in 6 weeks from sowing, and we have received hundreds of letters from 

 customers announcing that 4 weeks from sowing their lawn was ready for mow- 

 ing. When seed is sown during the hot months of June and July a sprinkling of 

 oats may be sown at the same time to protect the young grass from the sun, but 

 water must be used copiously or failure is likely to result. Lawns are also sown 

 during the fall months from August 20th to October 15th with excellent results. 

 Sow the seed on the newly raked or harrowed surface, but do not sow on a 

 windy day or much of the seed will be lost. Also do not sow seed when the 

 soil is wet, or much is lost during the necessary rolling, and besides the perfect 

 level desirable will be destroyed. 



THE BEST METHOD OF SOWING. SthS of^wing *5ii£ 8 M 



enable the operator to avoid sowing the same place twice and also prevent 

 him missing any part of the ground. 



The two garden lines A and B are stretched across the plot — the ends being 

 attached to stakes. The lines are placed 8 feet apart. Then the rods C and 

 D are laid across, these also being 8 feet apart. The space thus enclosed 

 8x8 feet is then sown with seed, and the rod D is lifted and placed 8 

 feet in advance of C, and that space is also sown. The rod C is lifted and 

 placedS feet in advance of D and so on until the entire width has been sown. 

 Then line A is lifted and placed 8 feet the other side of line B, the rods are again 

 placed in position another strip is sown, and so on until the lawn is completed. 

 For each square about a pint of seed should be used, if quick results are desired. 

 Less than this is usually allowed viz. 1 quart to 300 square feet, or 5 bushels 

 tothe acre, but there is no arbitrary rule. After all the seed is sown cover with 

 soil about j in. deep. This may be accomplished by raking the surface first in 

 one direction and then in an opposite one. Do not bury the teeth of the rake 

 too deeply. When the raking is finished roll the ground thoroughly 

 with t. heavy iron rollei. also in two opposite directions. 



For seeding lawns of Iaige area we advise the use of the " Velvet- 

 Lawn " Seeders. (Seepagel5). These valuable machines, of recent 

 invention, greatly facilitate the seeding of extensive grounds, such 

 as Golf Courses, Tennis Courts, Putting Greens, etc. There is also 

 the " Velvet- Lawn" hand-power foruseonsma^er 

 places, which is wonderfully efficient, putting the 

 seeds into old sod or newly prepared ground with 

 great eveness whether the day be windy or 

 not. 



QUANTITY OF SEED REQUIRED. 



As a guide for the proper quantity of seed 

 required to form a perfect lawn, we may 

 state that one quart of Lawn Grass mix- 

 ture is sufficient to sow an »rea of 20 feet by 

 15 feet — 300 square feet —or to cover an 

 acre five bushels will be required. It should 

 be borne in mind that in order to produce 

 the best results, grass seed for lawns should 



