CMr Ly ATELON. 
Flowering plants are from various parts of the world—temperate and tropi- 
cal—and their habits are as various. Some are found on mountains, others in 
rich moist valleys; and again on arid plains; it follows that their treatment 
must be very dissimilar, and that it is not in the province of a catalogue to give 
any lengthened cultural directions, We will only offer a few general remarks 
on seed sowing. 
In this latitude (Washington) nearly all the Hardy Annuals can be sown in 
April, say from first to middle, considering the season, and the condition of the 
ground; whilst the more tender varieties—natives of warmer climates—should 
not be committed to the ground before the middle of May. Such tender plants 
as Double Zinnias, Clianthus Dampierii, Cypress Vine, &c., should not be sown 
before the latter season, as they are natives of warm climates, and when sown . 
early, and the ground cold, they frequently perish. When this occurs, the 
blame is of course placed on the seedsman ; when, had they been sown in proper 
season, success would be certain. 
Harpy PERENNIALS.—The common and large seeded kinds may be sown in 
the open borders any time in April, but the rare and more delicate species will 
succeed with greater certainty if raised in a close frame, with or without bot- 
tom heat; thus treated, nearly all will flower the first season if sown early and 
planted out the early part of May. All those with very small seeds should be 
sown under glass. Amateurs will do well to bear in mind that though many 
Perennial seeds vegetate as quickly as those of Annuals, there are some others 
which usually remain dormant for weeks or even months; to this class belong 
the Cyclamens, Peonies, Fraxinella, &c. Our native Perennials are best sown 
in autumn, or as soon as gathered, and they will then vegetate the following 
spring. As this is not always practicable, the plan of steeping the seeds before 
sowing, for twenty-four hours, may be adopted with great advantage in many 
cases. Half-hardy Perennials require the same treatment as hardy Perennials, 
differing only in their need of winter protection. 
Green-house and hot-house Seed need a moist, warm temperature, such as 
the propagating-house or hot-bed frame. All seeds sown in frames or houses 
require shading, in bright weather, during the middle of the day, especially as 
spring advances. For all seeds sown in pots, under glass, a compost composed 
of well decomposed leaf mould, sand and sandy loam, will answer very well. 
Sow very thinly; cover the seeds with about its own thickness of soil. After 
germination has once commenced, the surface of the soil, on no account, should 
be allowed to become dry. Very small seeds, such as Mimulus, Lobelia, Cal- 
ceolaria, &c., should not be covered with soil, but be sprinkled thinly on the 
soil, which should be previously watered from a fine rose, Chinese Primula 
germinates best when covered with a layer of damp moss; this seed often fails 
to grow from being too deeply covered with soil, and many other failures are 
attributable to the same cause. 
A writer in the ‘‘Garden,”” London, makes the following remarks on the ger- 
mination of Seeds: “I have, at the present time, two kinds of shrub seeds, 
just appearing above ground, that have been sown, as nearly as possible, two 
years. In the ordinary course of affairs, many people, not understanding their 
nature, would have thrown them away at least eighteen months ago and blamed 
their seedsman for sending them bad seeds. Primula Japonica, if kept till spring, 
or until it has become thoroughly dry, it will not germinate for at least a year, 
and sometimes two; and the same holds good in the case of many hardy plants,” 
