HOME PROPAGATION OP PEACH TREES 



1543 



Pruning to Overcome Winter Freezing 



During the winter of 1909-10 the Yaki- 

 ma valley liad a long period of exceeding- 

 ly cold weather, the mercury falling as 

 low as 20 degrees below zero. Many of 

 the peach trees were so frozen that it was 

 a problem with the growers as to what 

 they should do with them. 



Three methods were followed: That of 

 cutting the trees down to the ground, or 

 nearly so; "dehorning," or cutting back 

 the main limbs to within six inches or 

 a foot of the trunk; and lastly, the more 

 moderate method of cutting back heavily 

 but not so heavily as to reach the "de- 

 horning" stage. Still others dug up their 

 trees, and either planted other fruits 

 such as apples or pears in place of the 

 peaches or planted new varieties of 

 peaches. The writer watched these ex- 

 periments with much interest, and at the 

 same time pruned his own orchard, cut- 

 ting off all branches that seemed to be 

 injured by the freeze. The conclusions 

 were as follows: 



1. Old trees that are beginning to de- 

 cline, if frozen severely will not pay for 

 rejuvenating, and it is better to dig them 

 up. 



2. In young trees, the "dehorning" 

 method was not necessary. 



3. It was found better not to prune un- 

 til the buds started, and then to cut off 

 all dead branches. 



4. Cutting down to the ground did 

 not prove satisfactory as compared ^ith 

 the less radical treatment. 



Trees that were in vigorous health are 

 more resistant to cold than those less vig- 

 orous. Therefore, fertility of soil, plenty 

 of water, or whatever tends to promote 

 vigor, gives greater resistance to cold. 



It is possible in the irrigated regions to 

 water too late and keep trees growing 

 until so late a period that the new wood 

 does not sufficiently mature to resist a 

 heavy freeze. 



Granville Lowther 



Top-Working Bearing Peacli Trees 



With the rapid growth of the peach in- 

 dustry many varieties have been planted 

 in large quantities that are undesirable 

 for commercial purposes or ill-adapted to 



the regions in which they are located. 

 There are also many orchards more than 

 ten years old, with trees still vigorous, 

 but of varieties that are no longer equal 

 to the newer commercial sorts. To sacri- 

 fice the orchards by cutting them out 

 means a loss of labor and capital al- 

 ready invested, but to leave the trees un- 

 changed continues an unproductive invest- 

 ment. It is possible to top-bud these or- 

 chards with better varieties, and it may 

 be desirable from the commercial stand- 

 point to do so if the trees have been 

 given good care, as new tops may be form- 

 ed that will produce good crops in three 

 or four years. 



The budding may be done either in 

 June or in the fall, the season depend- 

 ing on the locality and the convenience of 

 the grower. The buds may be inserted on 

 the main branches if the diameter of the 

 latter within six or eight inches of the 

 trunk is not over one and one-half 

 inches. On larger trees it is not ad- 

 visable to bud the main branches, but new 

 shoots in which the buds can be inserted 

 may be provided near the trunk of the 

 tree by cutting off the main branches 

 within one and one-half to two feet of 

 the body, and by thoroughly cultivating 

 the soil after the heads are removed. 



In preparing the tree for fall budding 

 it is often possible to pick the fruit, then 

 cut back the top, and insert the buds in 

 three to five of the main branches near 

 the trunk, the distribution of the buds 

 having regard for the form of the future 

 top. In large trees the cutting back is 

 done the preceding winter or spring to 

 provide the new shoots for budding. In 

 the South, however, where fruit is har- 

 vested earlier in the season, it is possible 

 to take the crop, remove the top, and then 

 by frequent cultivation provide new 

 shoots on the larger branches that can 

 be budded in August of the same year. 



As soon as the new buds start into 

 growth the old top should be entirely 

 removed and the branches bearing the 

 buds cut back close to the bud. The new 

 shoots that grow on the old branches 

 should be kept off, and the new head 

 formed in accordance with the grower*s 



