1918 



ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE 



used for this purpose. The selection of 

 plants from the old bed should be avoided 

 as much as possible, as continued fruit- 

 ing saps the vitality, thus preventing, 

 to a marked degree, the development of 

 strong runners. 



Treatment Before Planting. When 

 plants have been ordered through a 

 strawberry firm they usually arrive in 

 small bundles packed in damp moss. 

 Plants are very seldom set out on their 

 arrival, so in order to prevent unneces- 

 sary loss by moulding or drought, the 

 bundles should be opened and "heeled in" 

 immediately. In case the plants have 

 become abnormally dry, immerse them 

 in water up to their crowns for a few 

 minutes and then heel them in. The heel- 

 ing in process is a very simple one. All 

 that is necessary is to dig a trench deep 

 enough to cover the roots of the straw- 

 berry and lay in the plants close to- 

 gether in a single row with roots spread 

 out. The soil should be pressed firmly 

 around them leaving only the crowns and 

 leaves exposed. This will prevent drying 

 out. When the time arrives for the trans- 

 ferring of the plants to the field it is 

 very essential that they be protected so 

 as not to subject the roots to the action 

 of the wind. Drying out of roots is very 

 detrimental to the life of the plant. As 

 a means of precaution many growers 

 practice dipping the roots in water and 

 placing the plants in small bundles, then 

 wrapping with a damp cloth. 



Pruning the Plant, The plants should 

 never be placed in the field just the 

 way they have been received from the 

 nurseryman. Experience has taught us 

 that it is a good plan to correctly prune 

 the plant before setting, as it will respond 

 more quickly in the spring and make 

 a more vigorous growth than one care- 

 lessly pruned or left unpruned. In pre- 

 paring the plants for setting all the 

 diseased and dead leaves and all large 

 ones, except one or two of the thriftiest, 

 should be removed. A removal of the 

 leaves prevents excessive transpiration. 

 To establish equilibrium between top and 

 roots it is a good practice to remove 

 about one-third of the root. Fig. 5, 



Fig. 5. Pruned and Unpruned Plants. 



Nos. 1 and 2, represents a pruned and un- 

 pruned plant. As shown in No. 2 all 

 the leaves except one have been removed 

 and the roots shortened back to the 

 line. 



Time of Planting. Fall and spring 

 planting are both practised in the North- 

 west. However, fall planting is not ad- 

 vocated in many sections, although per- 

 missible in regions having ample rains. 

 Springtime has the preference by the 

 majority of the growers, as at this time 

 the soil is moist, warm, and in better 

 condition to be worked. When set care- 

 fully the plants will respond with a more 

 rapid growth, thus producing the follow- 

 ing season a large crop of berries for the 

 grower. In discussing this subject Mr. 

 Garner says: "My experience has proved 

 that spring planting is the most satis- 

 factory, for the reason that a plant set 

 in the fall does not have time to produce 

 a large crown system, which is essential 

 to a large crop of berries." 



Setting the Plant. The rows should be 

 evenly spaced and marked out. If pos- 

 sible it is a good practice to have the 

 rows run north and south, as the berries 

 will color up much better. Many devices 

 are used to mark out the rows. A simple 

 one can be made by nailing some two by 

 four-inch pieces together at the proper 

 distance and attaching a handle or 

 tongue. A shovel-toothed cultivator can 

 also be used for this purpose. After 

 marking, the grower is ready to set his 

 plants, and this may be done by the use 

 of a trowel, dibble, or spade. The hole 

 is opened and the plant placed in at the 

 proper depth, with the roots spread apart 



