STRAWBERRY— TREATMENTS OF PLANTATIONS 



1921 



PLANTS PER ACRE —(Continued) 

 Distance No. Plants 



iyis2 feet 17,424 



l%x3 feet 11,616 



11/2x11/2 feet 19,360 



1 V2X2 feet 14,520 



11/2x2% feet 11,616 



11/2x3 feet 9,680 



1 2'3xl 2/3 feet 15,681 



1 2'3x2 feet 13,168 



1 2'3x3 feet 8,712 



2x11/6 feet 14.520 



2x2 feet 10,890 



2x2% feet 8,712 



2x3 feet 7,260 



2%x2i4 feet 8,604 



21/1x21/2 feet 7,744 



214 x3 feet 6,453 



21/2x21/2 feet 6,969 



21/2x3 feet 5,808 



3x1% feet 9,680 



3x3 feet 4,840 



TREATMENT OF PLANTATION IN 

 IREIGATEB REGIONS 



The Young Plants. While the straw- 

 berry is a plant that requires a great 

 deal of water, the tendency is to irrigate 

 entirely too much. The practice of al- 

 lowing the water to run day and night 

 should not he tolerated, since in this way 

 naany of the elements necessary for plant 

 growth are washed out of the soil and 

 other injuries result. The first summer 

 after the plants are set they should he 

 irrigated as little as possible. "When the 

 ground shows signs of drying out the 

 first application should be made. The 

 number of applications, however, should 

 be governed largely by the moisture re- 

 quirements of the different soil types. A 

 few copious waterings, followed by fre- 

 quent starring of the soil to conserve 

 moisture, is better than many shallow 

 irrigations. Intensive cultivation should 

 be practiced after every application. 



The Bearing Plants. For early berries 

 the water should be kept off just as long 

 as possible in the spring. An application 

 of cold water tends to chill the ground, 

 thus retarding to a certain extent the 

 ripening of the berries. Cultivation 

 should continue until the plants begin 

 to throw out blossoms, then it should 

 cease. During the fruiting season fre- 

 quent irrigations are advised. "For bear- 

 ing plants I irrigate as soon as the 

 ground begins to get dry, and after they 

 begin to ripen I water two or three times 

 a week, as it takes water to make big 

 berries." 



3— -38 



The method of applying the water var- 

 ies in different sections. The majority 

 of the growers of the Northwest do not 

 advocate flooding. The most satisfactory 

 way is to lead the water close to the rows 

 in small rills. Better results are ob- 

 tained by running a larger amount for 

 a less time. While on the other hand, 

 the coarse open soil should receive copi- 

 ous waterings of shorter duration. Dur- 

 ing the heat of the summer water has a 

 cooling effect on the soil. Fall irrigation 

 is practiced in some sections where there 

 is a possibility of a dry winter. 



TREATMENT OF PLANTATION IN 

 NON-IRRIGATED REGIONS 



The Young Plants, Just as soon as the 

 young plants are set out in the spring 

 cultivation should begin. This should 

 be continued whenever needed up to the 

 first of September, as it is very essential 

 that strong healthy plants be developed 

 the first year. Plants that are neglected 

 during the first season seldom amount 

 to much. It is highly essential that the 

 soil be kept mellow and a dust mulch 

 preserved in order to conserve the moist- 

 ure. One of the best implements for this 

 work is a wheel hoe or Planet Junior. 

 This should be run over the plantation 

 every ten days or two weeks or following 

 every hard rain, as this keeps the soils 

 loose, friable, and prevents a crust form- 

 ing. The weeds should never be allowed 

 to get a start in the plantation as they 

 rob the plants more or less of the ele- 

 ments necessary for plant growth. How- 

 ever, if the grower begins operations just 

 as soon as he is able to work the soil in 

 the spring little trouble will be exper- 

 ienced. 



There appears to be some difference of 

 opinion regarding the summer treatment 

 of young plants. Some growers say to let 

 the plants bear the first season, but the 

 majority are discouraging this method. 

 For the perfect development of the plant 

 no buds or blossoms should be allowed 

 to develop the first season, as the plant 

 thus has a better chance of building up a 

 good strong crown and root system. Just 

 as soon as a bud appears it should be 



