DATES 
or suckers. The former method is not 
much used except in originating new va- 
rieties, because, like many other fruits, 
the date does not come true to seed. The 
fruit is generally later and poorer, and 
the excessive number of males that spring 
up cannot be distinguished and destroyed 
until the tree blossoms, hence propaga- 
tion by suckers is resorted to, although 
the date is difficult to transplant with uni- 
form success. Frequently as many as 
50 per cent. of the transplanted dates die 
after they have received the best of care, 
and if neglected hardly any will survive. 
The Arizona station gives directions for 
transplanting as follows: 
Suckers may be removed at any time 
during the spring or early summer, or 
even in the winter if proper care be given 
them after removal. If they are to be 
planted in the open ground, it is advis- 
able to remove them during the spring or 
early summer, April probably being the 
best month. In winter, when the plants 
are at a standstill, the suckers may be 
removed with comparatively small loss, 
if the bulbs be not less than four inches 
in diameter and have a few roots. It is 
necessary, when suckers are removed at 
this season, to set them in rather small 
pots, so that the earth, which should be 
given a daily soaking, may have a chance 
to get warm quickly. The pots should be 
kept in a greenhouse, or, better yet, em- 
bedded in a hotbed of manure, covered 
with the customary frame and glass. In 
all cases the leaves should be cut back to 
six to 12 inches in length. * * #* 
If proper attention can be given it is 
best to plant the suckers where they are 
to remain, as a second chance for loss 
occurs when they are planted in a nur- 
sery and later removed to the position 
that they are finally to occupy. 
A two-inch chisel well sharpened, and 
an appropriate mallet, are the important 
tools to use in removing suckers. The 
leaf stalk should be cut away, exposing 
the bulb of the sucker, care being taken 
not to injure the bulb in removing. One 
should cut in rather deeply at either side, 
not being afraid of injuring the old plant, 
cutting out a V-shaped portion extending 
from the base of the bulb downward for 
2—~15 
8$1 
a foot or more and being careful to secure 
in uninjured condition all the attached 
roots. If the position of the sucker be 
not too high above the ground, the V- 
Shaped portion should be continued 
downward into the soil, that all estab- 
lished roots be obtained. The Pomona 
substation in California has the best suc- 
cess in removing suckers by banking 
earth about the stem of the plant so as 
to cover the bulbs a number of weeks 
prior to removing them. A good system 
of roots is established by this method of 
procedure. 
Male and female flowers of the palm 
are borne on separate plants. In the male 
plant the flowers are crowded closely 
together on a large branched panicle and 
have an odor like musty flour. If the 
panicle is shaken when the flowers are 
well opened quantities of pollen will es- 
cape, filling the air as if with dust. The 
flowers in the female panicle are much 
farther apart; the segments are smaller 
and less spreading. The center of the 
flower is well filled by three pistils, two of 
which soon become abortive. 
It is evident, then, that male and female 
trees should be planted near each other. 
It is quite common to set one male plant 
in the center of an irregular circle of six 
or eight females. If the trees are planted 
in a row along a roadside the male trees 
should be planted to the windward. The 
wind may be depended upon as a rule to 
effect pollination if the staminate is not 
more than six or seven rods from the pis- 
tillate flowers. At greater distances pol- 
lination may be effected, though with 
doubtful certainty of completeness, by 
both wind and bees. 
The palm is peculiar in that the pollen 
retains its fertility for a long time. It 
may be transported to great distances and 
artificially applied to the female blossom 
with success. Pollen should not be dusted 
on the flower too profusely, as overpollin- 
ation is said to weaken the developing 
dates and cause them to drop from the 
tree. When artificial pollination is neces- 
sary the male blossom is cut from the 
tree as soon as the cracking of the 
spathe shows that it is about to open. 
The panicle may then be cut into pieces 
