FIGS 
be planted either in the field where they 
are to remain permanently or in the 
nursery row. The latter method is usual- 
ly preferable, as they can be given better 
care and grown at less expense. They 
should be planted deep, leaving only the 
uppermost bud just above the surface of 
the soil. Some prefer to make the cut- 
tings late in the spring and plant them 
at once in the field. This is certainly 
the most economical method. 
Planting 
The soil should be thoroughly prepared 
by deep plowing and enough disking 
and harrowing to pulverize every clod. 
Usually clay soils are not plowed deep 
enough, especially by the beginner. It 
must be remembered that the fig is natur- 
ally a very shallow-rooted plant, espe- 
cially where the subsoil is hard and comes 
up near the surface. Clay soil should be 
plowed eight to ten inches deep and 
then subsoiled to a depth of six to eight 
inches. This gives opportunity for prop- 
er root development, and storage of large 
quantities of water. 
The best time to do the planting is in 
the spring. Fall planting is not advisable, 
as the young plant can not endure very 
much cold until it becomes well estab- 
lished. If the planting is done in the 
fall or winter the young plant should be 
entirely covered with dirt until spring. 
The distance apart to plant will depend 
on the variety and the method of train- 
ing, whether in tree or bush form. Such 
semi-dwarf varieties as Brown Turkey 
are usually planted 10x10 or 12x12 feet 
apart in this state. Large growing va- 
rieties, like Celestial, need more room— 
15x15 to 20x20 feet. 
For best results the fig should be plant- 
ed deep. The young plant should be 
planted from four to six inches deeper 
than it stood in the nursery row; and 
then the entire top of the plant should 
be cut off at the surface of the ground. 
This induces a number of branches to 
come out from below the ground, which 
give the clump or bush form so desirable 
in the Upper South. If the cuttings are 
planted in the permanent places in the 
field the plants should be cut down to 
957 
the ground one year after planting. Some 
growers put from three to five plants or 
cuttings at each place instead of one, 
with excellent results. 
EB. C. REIMER, 
Horticulturist, North Carolina Agricultural 
Experiment Station, West Raleigh, Cc. 
Bulletin 208. 
Pruning 
As the Magnolia fig bears only on 
late wood of the previous year’s growth 
or new wood of the current year’s growth, 
the object is to produce as much new wood 
as possible—as in growing grapes. 
Standard Heads 
First Year 
Allow three to five limbs to start close 
to the top so located as to make a well 
balanced head, and rub off all other limbs 
and remove all suckers that may start 
from the base of the tree. 
Second Year 
Cut previous year’s growth back to 
within 12 inches of main stem. When 
growth starts allow each of the stubs to 
throw out two or three limbs, keeping 
all others off. 
Third Year 
Cut previous year’s growth same as sec- 
ond year, and allow them in turn to pro- 
duce two or three limbs each. 
Tools 
For cutting back, small and large prun- 
ing shears should be used; for removing 
suckers from the root use a carpenter’s 
gouge chisel. 
Soils 
The fig will grow on most soils, but 
commercial plantings should be confined 
to heavy black land and black sandy 
land, and it must be underlaid with por- 
ous clay subsoil not more than two feet 
below the surface. The reason for this 
selection of soil is that the only danger- 
ous disease attacking the fig is what is 
commonly known as Knot Root (Nema- 
tode), and this seldom does injury in 
heavy black soil. The reason for this, I 
believe, is that the heavier the land is 
the less oxygen there is available, and 
the parasite cannot exist without a cer- 
tain amount of this element. 
R. H. BusHway, 
Algoa, Texas. 
