FLORICULTURE 
plenty of nourishment for growth in 
years to come. Ordinarily, holes five to 
six feet in diameter by three feet deep 
should be made for street trees, and good 
loam used for the entire planting. In 
planting, place the loose loam in the bot- 
tom of the hole, treading it firm and rais- 
ing it so that it will be higher than the 
center and the proper height to have the 
roots of the tree not too deep. This will 
have to be done in accordance with the 
quantity of roots the tree has and, as a 
safe guide, a mark where the soil before 
touched the stem will be seen, and this 
should be taken as the place that should 
again touch the surface of the ground. 
In no case should the ground slope away 
from the tree when planting is finished. 
On the other hand, it is better that the 
ground should slope toward the tree. In 
filling in the hole, only fine loam should 
be put nearest the roots of the tree and 
as it is thrown in should remain firm, 
being tamped with a round tamper about 
the size of a pick handle, so as to make 
the soil firm over and through the roots. 
Make the soil firm among the roots and 
do not be afraid to thoroughly tamp. 
Trees should be planted, in many loca- 
tions, in the early spring and before the 
buds start into a new growth. On the 
other hand, fall planting will be found 
more advantageous to many of the va- 
rieties. 
Much might be said regarding varieties 
and it is often a hard matter to settle 
which variety is the most suitable for a 
certain location. Some of the best variet- 
jes of trees for street planting are the 
Platanus Orientalis (Oriental Plane tree) 
Acer, Platanoides (Norway Maple) 
Acer, Pseuda Platanus (Sycamore Maple) 
Acer, Saccharinum (Sugar Maple) 
Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse chest- 
nut) 
Catalpa Speciosa (Western Catalpa) 
Quercus Rubra (Red Oak) 
Quercus Palustris (Pin Oak) 
Sorbus Aucuparia (European Mountain 
Ash) 
Tilia Europea (European Linden) 
Tilia Platyphillos (Broad-leafed European 
Linden) 
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Tilia Dasytyla (Crimean Linden) 
Ulmus Americana (American White Elm) 
Ulmus Campestris (English Elm) 
Roses 
In the planting of roses the selection 
of a good location is the first essential 
and it 1s better to keep them from shade 
and away from the roots of trees. Roses 
will thrive in any good soil. It has often 
been said that roses require a clayey soil. 
This has been proven however to be in- 
correct, as many of the best rose plants 
will be found growing in the gravelly and 
fine sandy soil. The soil however must be 
well enriched with plenty of decomposed 
stable manure, cow manure being prefer- 
able. The ground should have good 
drainage and should be loosened up to 
a depth of from 1% to 2 feet. 
Roses may be planted in the fall or 
before the ground freezes, or in the early 
spring before the growing season starts 
in. Care should be taken to spread the 
roots of the plants out evenly and the 
soil should be drawn firmly through the 
roots of the plant. When budded or 
grafted plants are used they should be 
planted at from three to four inches below 
the bud or graft, that is, where the rose 
is united to the stock. This is beneficial, 
as by so doing new roots are pressed from 
the base of the rose plant, thereby giving 
it increased strength and helping to pre- 
vent the growing of suckers from the 
briar on which the roses budded are 
grafted. The distance for planting may 
be varied according to the varieties 
planted, 18 to 24 inches being about the 
general distance for most varieties. 
In some sections mulching will have 
to be done in the winter, to prevent the 
ground from heavy freezing and help 
protect the plants. This means the cov- 
ering of the ground with five or six 
inches of coarse litter. Pruning should 
be done in early spring before the growth 
is started in the plants. Cut out as 
much as possible of the old wood; that 
is, wood that has flowered last year, 
leaving the strong shoots of last year’s 
growth which should be cut back to from 
eight to 12 inches from the ground. 
