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avoided when selecting a location for an 
extensive vineyard. 
Preparing the Ground 
In preparing the ground it should be 
plowed very deeply, as no loosening of 
the subsoil is possible after the vines 
are planted. An excellent plan is to plow 
the ground in “lands” the width of the 
rows, making the “dead furrows” come 
where the vines are to be planted, and 
running the plow through them several 
times so as to break up the subsoil to 
a good depth. This thorough loosening 
of the subsoil is especially necessary 
where an underlying hardpan prevents 
good natural drainage. It will be better 
if all the ground is subsoiled, and if the 
work is done some weeks or even months 
in advance of the planting. Just before 
planting, the ground should be plowed 
again, reversing the “lands,” so as to 
make the ridge come where the furrow 
was. This should leave at least two feet 
of loosened soil where the vines are plant- 
ed, and will afford the roots ample room 
for a free growth, besides doing much to 
insure them against suffering from 
drought. 
Laying Out a Vineyard 
In laying out a vineyard the rows 
should be made to run as nearly north 
and south as possible if the vines are to 
be trained on a trellis, but if only stakes 
are to be used the rows may be run in 
any direction. By running the trellis 
north and south all the fruiting parts of 
the vine have nearly the same exposure 
to the sun, while the fruit, main stem, 
and roots are shaded and protected dur- 
ing the hottest part of the day. Protec- 
tion of the soil from washing is of first 
importance, however, and the direction of 
the rows for any method of training 
should be made to conform to the slope 
of the ground when the vineyard is on 
the side of a hill. 
Distance Apart of Vines 
The distances between the vines should 
be somewhat greater than is recommend- 
ed for Northern vineyards, as the longer 
growing season produces a heavier 
growth, and it is never profitable to 
crowd the vines too closely. The rows 
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE 
should be at least eight feet apart, and 
the same distance between the vines in 
the rows is close enough for such mod- 
erate growers as Delaware, Elvira, and 
Gold Coin. Vines of the stronger grow- 
ing varieties like Concord or Carman 
should be at least ten feet apart; 12 
feet is none too wide for such rank grow- 
ers as Fern, Laussel, and Herbemont. 
Some give the stronger vines as much as 
16 feet, and find that distance none too 
great on good soil. Vines of the Scup- 
pernong family should never be crowded, 
and 8 by 16 or 12 by 12 feet is close 
enough for them. 
Planting 
Only strong, one-year-old vines from 
cuttings or layers should be used for 
planting. Two-year-old vines are usually 
larger and heavier, but do not often grow 
so well or make as good vines as those 
planted at one year, while the three and 
four-year-old vines sometimes sold “for 
immediate bearing” are of very little 
value. It is more economical and in 
every way more profitable to pay a good 
price for good vines than to use old, 
stunted, or unhealthy vines which cost 
nothing. 
The holes in which the vines are 
planted should be of sufficient size to 
give room for the roots to be spread out 
in their natural positions, say from 15 
to 18 inches in diameter, and deep 
enough to allow the vines to be set about 
two inches deeper than they grew in the 
nursery rows. Very little is gained by 
making the holes larger than is needed. 
Where they can be secured, it is very 
beneficial to put a few pounds of bones 
in the bottom of each hole and cover 
them with a little soil before the vines 
are planted. It is not usually possible 
to do this for a large vineyard, but where 
only a few vines are planted to furnish 
fruit for home use a sufficient supply 
can commonly be found around a 
Slaughter house or in the fields, and they 
more than repay the trouble of gathering 
them. No other fertilizer need be used 
at the time of planting. 
The tops of the vines should be cut 
back to two or three buds. In planting, 
