APPLES 
headed trees interfere with orchard cul- 
tivation 1s easily met by the fact that a 
great many of our trees have a habit of 
growth which permits work under their 
branches even when low-headed without 
additional inconvenience. Those which 
do not have such a habit can be improved 
by proper pruning, and the head need 
be only a little higher than in the others 
The low-headed tree, therefore, is rapidly 
becoming the only one used in commer: 
cial plantings 
The question is often asked, “What is 
the proper height to head an apple tree?’ 
Authorities differ, some giving one foot 
as the desired height, others as much as 
three feet. It is scarcely wise to make 
any hard and fast rule as the height 
which will be found most advantageous 
will vary with different varieties For 
upright growing varieties like Wealthy 
and Northwestern, 18 inches to two feet 
will be sufficient. Varieties like Long- 
field with a spreading habit and slen- 
der branches should be headed somewhat 
higher. 
8 J. G. Moore, 
Madison, W1s 
Treatment of Trees When Received 
From the Nursery 
Just as soon as the trees are received 
from the nursery they should be unpacked 
and planted. If the ground is not ready 
when the trees are received they should 
be “heeled in” If the trees are to re- 
main heeled in a long while be sure that 
the bundles are separated and the trees 
carefully placed in the trench. Care 
should be taken that the dirt should be 
properly placed around the roots so there 
will be no air spaces left. After the 
trees are heeled in, water them thor- 
oughly and in this way any air spaces 
that are left will be noticed after the soil 
settles, and the holes or cracks left may 
be filled. 
Occasionally trees arrive in very dry 
condition and one does not know just 
what to do with them. One of the best 
things to do is to bury the whole tree, 
root and top, in moist soil for a few days. 
By burying the whole tree it will take 
in moisture slowly and will gradually 
resume its plump condition. The prac- 
139 
tice of putting the dried trees in water 
Is not to be recommended 
FABIAN GARCIA, 
Santa Fe, N M. 
Preparing the Trees for Planting 
The treatment that a young tree should 
receive before planting consists chiefly in 
pruning the tops and roots. The main 
object of such pruning is to readjust the 
balance between top and root which in 
the process of digging is somewhat dis- 
turbed 
Trimming the Roots.—While a large 
root system is an indication of a vigor- 
ous tree, it is not essential to the suc- 
cessful development of a tree. It has 
been found by experiment that trees with 
their roots severely cut back thrive just 
as well as those with elaborate root sys- 
tems intact. The fibrous roots on a young 
tree are not of value, for these are al- 
ways killed in transplanting and the tree 
throws out a new root system. The vital- 
ity of a young tree, then, depends more 
upon the energy stored up in its stem 
than upon its root development. This 
is an important point, for a tree with 
a small root system is more expeditiously 
planted than one with an elaborate sys- 
tem All mangled roots should be cut 
off cleanly and all the main roots should 
be cut back to about three or four inches 
of the trunk. 
C. D. Jarvis, 
Storrs, Conn 
THE ROOT PRUNING OF YOUNG 
FRUIT TREES 
Stringfellow System 
The following conclusions as to the 
value of the Stringfellow system of root 
pruning were formulated by Mr. G. Harold 
Powell of the California Fruit Exchange 
some years ago while horticulturist at the 
Delaware Experiment Station. 
Both root pruning and top pruning are 
helpful to a transplanted tree, for the 
original harmony between root and branch 
is disturbed in its removal from the nur- 
sery. 
The Stringfellow system removes all the 
roots, and shortens the body to a foot or 
eighteen inches in length. 
The advocates of the new method claim 
