308 
upper branches. A tree that is 30 feet 
or over in height often may be shortened 
by 10 or 15 feet, and one between 25 and 
30*feet often may be cut back to about 
15 or 20 feet. The horizontal branches, 
as well as the upright ones, may be cut 
back to advantage, especially with trees 
seriously lacking in vitality, and also 
those infested with scale. In heading 
back the upright branches, the cut is usu- 
ally made just above a side branch that 
points outward. This tends to make the 
tree more spreading in habit. With trees 
that are naturally spreading and where 
a more upright growth is desired, the cut- 
ting may be done just beyond an upright 
side branch. If this method is followed 
with all horizontal branches, a much 
stronger structure will be the result. 
The severity of heading-in will depend 
largely upon the vigor of the tree. Noth- 
ing will start a tree into renewed vigor 
like severe pruning during the dormant 
season. The cutting-back, therefore, 
should be more severe with weakened 
trees. With moderately vigorous trees, 
A Fairly Common Form of Apple Tree. 
Fig. 2. 
The white lines indicate the points where 
the chief cuts should be made in pruning a 
tree of this ‘kind. Besides the branches in- 
dicated, much of the brush should be re- 
moved from all parts of the tree. Many of 
the best branches have been removed from 
the lower part of the tree in former years. 
depend upon the presence of scale. 
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE 
there is danger of producing a rank 
growth in the form of water sprouts. -If 
it is desirable to severely head back such 
trees, it is better to do it gradually, a 
little each year, and ,withhold all nitrog- 
enous fertilizers. A still better plan 
would be to remove about half of the re- 
quired amount of brush during the winter, 
and the remainder during the growing 
season. The effect of summer pruning 
upon the vigor of the tree is just the op- 
posite to that of winter pruning and will 
counteract the stimulating effect of the 
latter. With most of the neglected or- 
chards, however, the vitality is so low 
that most of the pruning may be done, 
without fear of injury, during a single 
dormant season. 
The severity of cutting back will also 
The 
work of spraying is greatly simplified and 
the chances for success in controlling the 
scale are greatly enhanced by extreme 
methods of pruning. 
After the trees have been sufficiently 
headed in, all dead and diseased branches 
should be removed, and also such other 
branches as are necessary to produce a 
condition favorable to the free circulation 
of air and the admission of sunlight. 
While it is possible to over-do the pruning 
process, especially with the best of neg- 
lected orchards, the average man is more 
likely to err in the other direction. 
Taking Care of Wounds 
The universal rule in pruning is that 
all cuts should be closely and smoothly 
made and that the larger wounds should 
be painted over to keep out wood decaying 
fungi. The smaller wounds heal over 
quickly and will take care of themselves. 
Before applying the paint, the wood should 
be allowed to dry. Common lead paint, 
made up of white lead and boiled linseed 
oil, is very suitable for this purpose. If 
desired, a small amount of coloring mat- 
ter, such as lamp-black, may be mixed 
with the paint so that the spots will be 
less conspicuous. 
C. D. JaRvIs, 
Storrs, Conn. 
