New Floral Guide—Spring, 1907. 9 
How tohave SUCCESS With ROSES (car 
We suggest that you keep this catalog for reference 
In Planting 2 and 3 Year Old Roses 
The same general principles apply as above. These fine large 
Roses almost invariably come by express witha ball of earth 
adhering tothe roots. It is not necessary to remove this en- 
tirely, but when planting where they are to remain, this ball of 
earth should be dampened first and then loosened up so that 
the roots, when planted, can readily come in contact with new 
good soil and thus be encouraged to make fresh, strong 
growth. In other respects, follow the same general rules as 
for the one-year roses, but place the roses a little further 
apart, say, about 2 feet. 
If Not Ready to Plant 
Immediately when received they should be ‘‘heeled in” by 
placing them in a slanting position in a shallow trench and 
covering the roots thoroughly half way up the stems with fine 
soft earth, well pressed down, to keep them from drying out, 
and if roots seem at all dry pour a pail of water on them in the 
trench; in this way they will keep perfectly for several days, 
or, for a few days, they may be opened and kept upright in a 
cellar or other suitable place, if not allowed to get dry, but 
they should be planted where they are to remain with as little 
delay as possible. 
If Weather is Hot and Dry 
Water thoroughly occasionally, evening is the best time, 
but if ground is kept mellow and well stirred, very little water 
is required unless in unusually dry times—Stirring the earth 
with a hoe or rake every day is better than watering, as it 
serves to bring up moisture from below and helps to keep the 
ground clear of weeds and grass, which is very important. Let 
them bloom as soon and as much as they will, but be sure to 
keep the flowers picked off every day before they wither or 
fade, for ifallowedtodry up on the busk they weaken its 
growth—and fewer blooms will be the result. The more vigor- 
ous your plants grow the more they will bloom, and the finer 
and sweeter the flowers will be. 
Winter Protection 
Although we carefully explain in the introduction to each 
class whether the rosesin that class are hardy or not, the 
safest way is to protect all your roses, for it will do no harm 
to the hardiest and where manure is used for a covering it 
also serves the purpose of a fertilizer. 
After the leaves have fallen and before very hard frost in 
the Fall, give the beds a covering of manure, straw, cedar 
boughs, corn fodder, leaves or street sweepings; enough to keep 
the roots from freezing, but still not smother the plants. In 
very cold localities it sometimes pays to wrap the entire bushes 
in straw or bend them down to the ground and fasten them to 
stakes driven in for the purpose, and then cover as above. 
Inthe Spring uucover gradually before the new growth 
starts, and cut off all dead looking wood. If necessary, Own 
Root Roses may be trimmed quite to the ground; they will 
soon spring up and bloom again true toname. Budded plants 
under the same circumstances would be lost, this is why Own 
Root Roses are best when they can be obtained. 
But the matter of protection is not such a serious problem 
these days when good new rose plants can be obtained at a 
very low price. Many people feel that the blossoms produced 
the first season cre worth many times the cost of the plants 
and so buy new ones each year. 
Pruning Roses 
Roses differsoin habit of growth that Pruning becomes 
much a matter ofjudgment. Spring is the best time, before 
new growth starts. First, cut out all cead wood and weak 
shoots, then in bushes of vigorous habit trim one half to two- 
thirds of the past seasons growth. Teas and Hybrid Teas 
should betrimmed rather less. Ramblers and other climbers 
that bloom on the past seasons wood should be pruned back 
strong after they have finished blooming. Remember, Pruning 
most roses induces new growth and the new growth produces 
bloom. Prune too when you plant if the bushes droop, too 
much top isa disadvantage and pruning gives the roots a 
chance to get re-established. 
Roses in Pots and Under Glass 
Roses ordered in June or early Summer may be started in 
pots or in greenhouse benches, (use pots 4 inches across the 
top for 1-year roses and 6 inch pots for 2-year roses) or if you 
have them in pots, plunge pots and allin open ground during 
the Summer ina partially shaded place when they can be 
cultivated and kept healthy and then take indoors before 
cold weather. Renew half the earth in the pots without dis- 
turbing the roots any more than possible; use nice turfy soil 
with some clay and liberally mixed with well rotted cow 
manure and then bring into a room where they get plenty of 
sunshine and a regular temperature of about 50-degrees at 
night and 75-degrees during the daytime. Water enough to 
keep them in good growing condition. A close watch must 
be kept for all manner of insect enemies and the proper reme- 
dies applied before they have any time to make headway 
(Rose Nicotine is good, see page 181.) 
In the Fall we offer roses specially prepared for Winter 
blooming and these same roses if rested off in a cool place, 
after the blooming period, may be planted out the following 
Spring and will grow and bloom with renewed energy. The 
best varieties for growing indoors will be found on page 7. 
Insect Enemies 
Roses in pots and under glass are more liable to be attacked 
by injurious insects than those in open ground, but with a 
little care and attention you can easily keep them clean and 
thrifty. Healthy, vigorous plants are not often hurt by insects, 
the weaklings suffer most. This is another reason why good 
plants in the start are most economical in the long run. 
It is, therefore, very important to keep your plants healthy 
and vigorous and we know of nothing so good for this pur- 
pose as occasional applications of the wonderful new plant 
food ‘‘Bonora;”’ recommended by the Government Experimen- 
tal Stations, Dept. of Agriculture &c., as the finest plant food 
yet produced, see directions on every package. Small size 
feeds 25 plants 6 months, price 25 cts., postpaid. Large size 
can, enough for one year, 60 cents, postpaid. (See page 131.) 
If Troubled With Green Fly 
Spray vigorously, covering thoroughly every part of the 
foliage. One of the best remedies you can get is Thompsons 
Rose Nicotine. Prices 25 cts. and 60 cts. as offered on page 
131. Sulpho-Tobacco Soap is also good or Kerosene Emul- 
sion made by mixing 2 parts of Kerosene with one part of 
sour milk and when the compound has thoroughly united so 
as to form a white jelly, dilute with 20 parts of soft water. 
The best way to apply any of these remedies is by means of a 
sprinkler. 
The ‘‘Household,”’ ‘‘Tri-jet’”’ and ‘‘Auto-Spray”’ offered cn 
page 131 are all good. 
For The Rose Beetle 
Hand picking in the early morning is best. Bordeaux 
mixture is one of the best preventives for mildew and black 
spot, which are fungous diseases usually caused by continued 
wet weather, ora safer thing to useis one half ounce of sul- 
phide of potassium to one gallon of water, and spray about 
once a week. 
If You Would Like Still More Information about 
Roses, get our Itlustrated Art Book entitled ‘‘How to Grow 
Roses’’ 16 pages full of useful information, price 10 cts., or on 
request it is free with a $1.00 order. 
If you will turn to page 6 and carefully read our guarantee again you will readily see that our suc- 
cess in the Rose growing business depends upon your success with our Roses. 
We know you can suc- 
ceed with them if you try, because C. & J. Roses are good Roses—‘‘The Best Roses in America.” 
The only question you need to think about, is: ‘‘How many dol! want?” 
