HOW TO PRUNE YOUR ROSES 
Pruning is the art of improving the productive power and the appearance of a plant. It consists of two distinct operations. 
1. The removal of dead, weak, overcrowded, or otherwise useless shoots. Unripe wood which in the spring will usually be found to 
have discolored pith, caused by the winter frosts, should be cut clean away at the base of the shoot. 2. Pruning proper, the 
shortening of those shoots which are allowed to remain after the thinning-out process has been completed. 
The most frequent errors made in pruning are: (1) leaving too many shoots when thinning out; (2) pruning severely the shoots 
of varieties which require little, if any, shortening; (3) pruning lightly the varieties which require severe pruning; (4) leaving Rose 
plants crowded with shoots and cutting these to a uniform length all over the plant in a similar way that a hedge is clipped. 
In thinning out a shoot, it should be either cut clean away to the base of the plant, or to its starting point on the older shoot 
from which it springs, as the case may be. When the plant has been pruned, the shoots should be left as nearly as possible equidistant 
from each other, and regularly arranged around it so that it presents a well-balanced appearance on all sides.—National Rose Society's 
Handbook on Pruning. 
HYBRID PERPETUALS POLYANTHAS 
See pages 38 to 41 See page 27 ; j 
The Hybrid Perpetuals should be pruned in March, if weather These, as a rule, are very hardy and no pruning is necessary 
permits, by the middle of the month. except to thin out the thick growth and remove the last season’s 
When pruning, first cut out the weak wood and any branches | flower-stems. 
that cross, then cut back the strong canes to about six eyes, 
the top one pointing out, and the cut being made one-quarter BOURBONS AND CHINAS 
inch above the bud. If you want only a few big flowers, cut Bh 
back to only three or four buds. For the big outdoor display, Gale aseatee dei nes a 
leave four to seven canes two-thirds | 4 Ae d of "on c sar g is necessary. Simply remove any 
their growth. ead and useless wood. 
These rules are modified somewhat 
by the character of the plant. The MOSS ROSES 
weaker-growing varieties can be cut : See page 36 
back farther than strong-growing sorts. These require moderately close pruning and should have an 
The strong-growing kinds, if cut back | abundance of manure for successful cultivation. 
too heavily, will run to wood, and in 
the case of some—Gloire Lyonnaise, RUGOSA ROSES 
for instance—too heavy pruning may Seolmecelas 
kill the plant. These do not require pruning after the first season, except 
cutting away dead wood and keeping the plant shapely. Are 
TEAS AND HYBRID TEAS | 2/0 rich feeders. 
See pages 16 to 24 HARDY CLIMBERS 
The Teas and Hybrid Teas will need See pages 28 to 34 
the same attention as the Hybrid Per- These need to be cut back only about one-fifth, and on old, 
petuals, but there should be as much | well-established plants the old, enfeebled wood should also be 
or more wood left. In case the winter | taken out. With this class it is well to bear in mind that it is 
may have killed the canes, cut back | on the wood made the previous season that the bloom stalks 
to live wood, even if down to the sur- | come for the next season’s display, therefore Hardy Climbers 
ES face of the soil. should be pruned and trimmed back (if they need trimming) 
=e You will get lots of bloom from the | after their blooming period is over and before they make new 
Showing where to prune New canes that will come up. summer growth. 
Probably our worst enemy to American Roses is the Rose Thompson’s Rose Nicotine is chemically pure nicotine 
beetle, which is particularly severe on sandy soils. For this, | and quick death to insects on Roses. No trouble, no odor, no 
hand-picking into a vessel of kerosene is effective, or one pound | staining; simply apply as directed with spray pump or plant 
of arsenate of lead in ten gallons of water sprayed on every | sprinkler. Small can 30 cts., larger size 60 cts., postpaid. 
two weeks through June and July is a preventive. This is Sulpho-Tobacco Soap. Another splendid insecticide. Di- 
also a good remedy for the Rose slug, which skeletonizes the | rections for use on every package. 3-0z. cake, makes 1% gallons 
leaves. He works from the under side of the foliage, so, when prepared solution, 10 cts. each; 8-oz. cake, makes 4 gallons pre- 
aU Gohidge. on proce, diag, attack dhe plants cue My, aad) Bateslies eloualeone geese. 
SOLER aneutac S ; ; i lugs, 
Jungs and not dipatched they multiply rapidyand sic the | , Mellebore, Powdered White. For the devuction of li 
FUSE G OUTS MES SOE SYN OLN ONOL & London Pince and safer to use. Use as a powder or dissolve 
Base HN Page Be pore ae “eae eon bothers ed one ounce in three gallons of water. Postpaid, %lb. 25 cts.; for 
Bien wochec Simceu OEE Bk. rare Panes bap uaa other quantities add ro cts. extra to express price for every pound, 
Of the fungous diseases, mildew is by far the worst and most when wantee Py mail. Py, eae lags cts.; 5 lbs., $1; 10 lbs., 
difficult to overcome. It will be recognized as a white mold $2; 25 Ibs. and over at 18 cts. per Ib. : Lb a. 
appearing on the foliage, which if not checked will spread. Grape Dust. For ldo tia mold, or nse es bs Eg icees 
This is most likely to occur in warm, damp weather, and | 5 !bs., 40 cts., by express only (not prepaid); postpaid, . 
certain varieties, such as Crimson Ramblers, are more subject | Per Yalb. 4 
to its attacks. Bordeaux Mixture applied at fortnightly inter- Bordeaux Mixture (Dry). For dusting plants affected 
vals is a good preventive. As a cure, flowers of sulphur dusted | with mildew and all fungous diseases. Can be used as a spray. 
on the foliage is recommended, also ‘Grape Dust.’’ For black | 1-Ib. box, 25 cts. (makes 5 gallons liquid); 5 lbs., $1, by express. 
spot, rust and other fungous diseases, follow the same course. If wanted by mail, add 15 cts. per lb. to above prices. 
