Rose Specialists 



50^EARS Experience 



HOW TO GROW ROSES, continu.ci 



Manures. \\'hile manure from the cow-stable is probably best, you can draw 

 upon the horse-stable or pig-sty with equal expectation of good results, and "night 

 soil" mixed with dry soil or sand and well composted is unsurpassed. Well-rotted 

 leaves are fair, but too light except for heav\' soils. Commercial fertilizers, such 

 as bone or guano, may be used to advantage if handled with discretion. A rule to 

 remember is never to let any "green" or "raw" manure come close to the roots of 

 your Roses, but see that it is buried well beneath the root reach, or applied as a top- 

 dressing. 



The best time to apply manures is just as the ground begins to freeze in the autumn; 

 let it serve as a protection over winter and dig it in next spring. It is said that Roses 

 draw most upon the soil when blooming, and we find you can almost see the results 

 from application (when the flower-buds begin swelling) of liquid manure, concocted 

 by catching the drain from the manure pile, or one third of a bushel of manure soaked 

 in a barrel of water and applied as a weak tea, not too strong, but frequently — say 

 twice a week. When it is more convenient, a sprinkling of bone dust on the surface 

 before a rain will answer the same purpose. Even with the best care, it may prove 

 necessary at times, say after six or eight years, to renew the Roses or move the bed, 

 adopting the farmer's principle of rotation of crops. 



Time to Plant. The best time to plant Roses depends upon where you live. 

 In the Southern and Pacific Coast States, autumn or early winter is most favorable. 

 Leaving the Gulf states and coming North to the next tier of states, the same is true, 

 providing you get dormant plants. 



North of the line of the Ohio river, only our hardier varieties will withstand the 

 winters, if set out in the fall. The Everblooming kinds — i. e., the less hardy Teas and 

 Hybrid Teas — before they can stand a winter in the open, require a summer's growth 

 in which to become thoroughly established; and, therefore, through the largest area 

 of our great country, as a general rule, spring planting is recommended. 



If your ground for Roses has been prepared in the autumn, all the better; if not, 

 begin as soon in the spring as the soil is dry enough to crumble in your hand. After 

 this, dormant Roses may be planted at any time, but Roses in leaf not until mid-April, 

 or any time thereafter. 



Treatment on Arrival. When you receive the Roses, giv-e them the greatest 

 care; never expose the roots to the drj'ing action of spring winds for a moment. A 

 plant with bare roots exposed to the dry air is like a fish out of water. Should the plants, 

 through delay in transit, come dried out, as occasionally happens, soak the balls of 

 earth and roots in water; if the stems have dried out, after soaking the ball, bury the 

 whole plant in damp earth for several days. This treatment may put them in good 

 condition while, if they are planted when dried out, there is danger of their dying. 



Planting. If plants have been started in pots and eome with the earth on the 

 roots, do not remove this earth, simply crush it and loosen it slightly so the outside 

 roots get a chance to come in contact with the new soil. Should the plants arrive 

 dormant, when ready to plant, unpack in a shaded place, protected from the wind. 

 Keep the roots covered with damp burlap, moss or other material, until the actual 

 moment of planting; spring winds are so drying that fatal damage may occur 

 through a few moments of exposure. Do not set the plants too deep or too shallow. 

 If planted too deep, the stems will rot off; if too shallow, the plants will grow 

 spindling, will dry out too soon, and high winds will cause them to sway, breaking the 

 roots. It is a good rule to plant them just a little deeper than they formerly grew, 

 with upper roots i or 2 inches under ground. Make the hole in which the plant is to 

 be set large enough so that the roots can be spread out naturally. Plants with cramped 

 roots never do so well as those that have plenty of root-room when planted. Use 

 plenty of water when planting, to work the soil among the roots. As the soil is being 

 thrown in about the roots, pour in a pailful of water. When the hole is almost full, pour 

 in another pailful, then set the next plant. In three or four hours, when the surplus 

 water has drained away, finish filling the hole with soil and tramp the earth firmly 

 about the plant. The after-cultivation consists of frequently stirring the surface soil 

 to maintain a dust mulch. 



Mulching. The main object being to retain the moisture rather than to enrich 

 the soil, cultivate the garden once a week up to the middle of July, to maintain a dust 

 mulch; after that, a liberal covering of "long" cow- or horse-stable manure that will 

 not heat will accomplish this purpose best. 



Winter Protection. WTiere the temperature gets below freezing, the less hardy 

 Roses will require protection, and all of them will be the better for it, at least about 

 the roots. Soon after the first frost (see calendar), having hilled up the soil around the 

 stems, cover the Rose beds all over with a 3- or 4-inch layer of good heavy stable ma- 

 nure, and over this a 6- or 12-inch layer of leaves, held in place by the most sightly ma- 

 terial available. A 12-inch fence of poultry wire will keep the leaves in bounds nicely. 

 If leaves are not available, straw, corn-fodder and even boxes put over the Roses to 

 shed the rains, will protect from the cold biting winds and the alternate freezing and 

 thawing of early spring sunshine and cold nights; but do not smother the Roses, for 

 if too tightly covered they will die. Remove the covering gradually in the spring when 

 danger from frost is past. 



THE ROSE-LOVER'S CALENDAR OF 

 OPERATIONS, continued 



JUNE 



lOth. Begin to enrich the Teas and Hy- 

 brid Teas with liquid manure. (You'll 

 soon see the result.) 



20th to 30th. Now the Teas, Hybrid 

 Teas and Climbers begin blooming in 

 abundance. Cut your blossoms freely. 

 Look out for mildew and apply the 

 remedy. 



JULY 



1st. Keep the soil well stirred. 



4th. Gather all the flowers you can, it is 

 not best for the plants to have them 

 die on the bushes. You should now be 

 reaping a full harvest from the Teas, 

 Hybrid Teas, etc. 



10th. From now till autumn keep a sharp 

 lookout for signs of fungoid troubles — 

 such as (1) Mildew, (2j Black Spot, or 

 (3) Yellow Leaf, and apply Bordeaux 

 mixture. If any aphis, use Rose nico- 

 tine. 



20th. Now or earlier mulch your Roses 

 with grass cuttings, old manure, or 

 leaves. This will keep them blooming 

 better. 



AUGUST 



30th. Teas and Hybrid Teas bring forth 

 their "Fall Flower Show." As soon as 

 the buds form, remember that Bon 

 Arbor or manure water applied to 

 the roots will help them to produce 

 the blossoms you'll be proud of. 



SEPTEMBER 



10th. Some Hybrid Perpetuals bloom a 

 second time. 



OCTOBER 



15th. Make ready your new beds for 

 next year. 



NOVEMBER 



15th. After the first frost, begin covering 

 the roots of your Roses with manure, 

 and soon after this complete the pro- 

 tecting of the more tender kinds. 



THANKSGIVING DAY 



All should be safely nestled in their 

 winter beds. 



DECEMBER 



Read Dean Hole's Book of the Rose. 

 It is both interesting and instructive. 



