CoNARD & Jones 



West Grove. Penna. 



HOW TO PRUNE YOUR ROSES 



Pruning is the art of improving the productive power, and the appearance of a plant. It consists of two distinct operations. 

 I. The removal of dead, weak, overcrowded, or otherwise useless shoots. Unripe wood which in the spring will usually be found to 

 have discolored pith, caused by the winter frosts, should be cut clean away at the base of the shoot; Pruning proper, the shortening 

 of those shoots which are allowed to remain after the thinning-out process has been completed. 



The most frequent errors made in pruning are (i) leaving too many shoots when thinning out; (2) pruning severely the shoots 

 of varieties which require little, if any, shortening; {,^) pruning lightly the varieties which require severe pruning; (4) leaving Rose 

 plants crowded with shoots and cutting these to a uniform length all over the plant in a similar way that a hedge is clipped. 



In thinning out a shoot, it should be either cut clean away to the base of the plant, or to its starting point on the older shoot 

 from which it springs, as the case may be. When the plant has been pruned the shoots should be left as nearly as possible equidistant 

 from each other, and regularly arranged around it so that it presents a well-balanced appearance on all sides. — National Rose Society's 

 Handbook on Pruning. 



f:--,^ 



HYBRID PERPETUALS 



See pages 38 to 41 



The Hybrid Perpetuals should be pruned in March, if weather 

 permits, by the middle of the month. 



When pruning, first cut out the weak wood and any branches 

 that cross, then cut back the strong canes to about six eyes, 

 the top one pointing out, and the cut being made one-quarter 

 inch above the bud. If you want only a few big flowers, cut 

 back to only three or four buds. For the big outdoor display, 

 leave four to seven canes two-thirds 

 their growth. 



These rules are modified somewhat 

 by the character of the plant. The 

 weaker-growing varieties can be cut 

 back farther than strong-growing sorts. 

 The strong-growing kinds, if cut back 

 too heavily, will run to wood, and in 

 the case of some — Gloire Lyonnaise, 

 for instance — too heavy pruning may 

 kill the plant. 



TEAS AND HYBRID TEAS 



See pages 16 to 24 



The Teas and Hybrid Teas will need 

 the same attention as the Hybrid Per- 

 petuals, but there should be as much 

 or more wood left. In case the winter 

 may have killed the canes, cut back 

 to live wood, even if down to the sur- 

 face of the soil. 



You will get lots of bloom from the 

 new canes that will come up. 



Showing where to prune 



POLYANTHAS 



See page 27 



These, as a rule, are very hardy and no pruning is necessary 

 except to thin out the thick growth and remove the last season's 

 flower stems. 



BOURBONS AND CHINAS 



See page 26 



Only moderate pruning is necessary. Simply remove any 

 dead and useless wood. 



MOSS ROSES 



See page 36 



These require moderately close pruning and should have an 

 abundance of manure for successful cultivation. 



RUGOSA ROSES 



See page 35 



These do not require pruning after the first season, except 

 cutting away dead wood and keeping the plant shapely. Are 

 also rich feeders. 



HARDY CLIMBERS 



See pages 28 to 34 



These need to be cut back only about one-fifth, and on old, 

 well-established plants the old, enfeebled wood should also be 

 taken out. With this class it is well to bear in mind that it is 

 on the wood made the previous season that the bloom stalks 

 come for the next season's display, therefore, Hardy Climbers 

 should be pruned and trimmed back (if they need trimming) 

 after their blooming period is over and before they make new 

 summer growth. 



ROSE ENEMIES 



Probably our worst enemy to American Roses is the Rose 

 Beetle, which is particularly severe on sandy soils. For this, 

 hand-picking into a vessel of kerosene is effective, or one pound 

 of arsenate of lead in ten gallons of water sprayed on every 

 two weeks through June and July is a preventive. This is 

 also a good remedy for the Rose slug, which skeletonizes the 

 leaves. He works from the under side of the foliage, so, when 

 after him, turn the foliage and spray it thoroughly. 



Aphides, or green flies, attack the plants during May and 

 June, and if not dispatched they multiply rapidly, and suck the 

 life-blood from the leaves. A vigorous spraying of Thompson's 

 Rose nicotine will settle them. Scale seldom bothers any 

 except old, neglected shrub Roses. Use scalecide or lime-and- 

 sulphur wash. 



Of the fungous diseases, mildew is by far the worst and most 

 difficult to overcome. It will be recognized as a white mold, 

 appearing on the foliage, which if not checked will spread. 



This is most likely to occur in warm, damp weather, and 

 certain varieties, such as Crimson Ramblers, are more subject 

 to its attacks. Bordeaux Mixture applied at fortnightly inter- 

 vals is a good preventive. As a cure, flowers of sulphur dusted 

 on the foliage is recommended, also "Grape Dust." For black 

 spot, rust, and other fungous diseases follow the same course. 



INSECTICIDES 



Thompson's Rose Nicotine is chemically pure nicotine 

 and quick death to insects on Roses. No trouble, no odor, no 

 staining; simply apply as directed with spray pump or plant 

 sprinkler. Small can 30 cts., larger size 65 cts., postpaid. 



Sulpho- Tobacco Soap. Another splendid insecticide. Di- 

 rections for use on every package. 3-oz. cake makes I yi gallons 

 prepared solution, 10 cts. each; 8-oz. cake makes 4 gallons pre- 

 pared solution, 25 cts., postpaid. 



Hellebore, Powdered White. For the destruction of slugs, 

 worms, caterpillars, etc. Less poisonous than Paris Green and 

 London Purple, and safer to use. Use as a powder or dissolve 

 one ounce in three gallons of water. }^\b. box, 20 cts. ; lb. 25 cts, 

 5 lbs., $1.00; 10 lbs., $2.00; 25 lbs. and over at 18 cts. per lb., 

 by express; postpaid, >^ lb. 25 cts., for'other quantities add ID cts. 

 extra to express price for every pound, when wanted by mail. 



Grape Dust. For mildew, mold or rust mites. 15 cts. lb., 

 5 lbs. 40 cts., by express only (not prepaid); postpaid, 20 cts. 

 per >^lb. 



Bordeaux Mixture (Dry). For dusting plants affected 

 with mildew, and all fungous diseases. Can be used as a spray. 

 I lb. box, 25 cts. (makes 5 gallons liquid); 5 lbs., $1.00, by 

 express. If wanted by mail, add 15 cts. per lb. to above prices. 



