24 



LEAMON G. TINGLE. PITTSViLLE. MARYLAND. 



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l)een piupeily ti-iiuined, legardless of the 

 great injury to the present appearance of the 

 tree. In transplanting- under the most care- 

 ful manag-enient, so many of the fibrous roots 

 which carry nourishment are destroyed that 

 it is very essential that the top be corres- 

 ponding-ly remoA-ed. 



When hole is dug" larg-e enoug-h to admit 

 all roots without crowding-, place the tree in 

 proper position, fill the hole about half-full 

 of rich top soil, firm well ag-ain. this will 

 hold the trees in proper condition, follow this 

 by some loose soil raised about 3 inches 

 above surface of the g-round, to prevent soil 

 baking- above roots of the tree, a mulch of 

 barn-yard manure is much better for this 

 purpose, it not only answers as a mulch, but 

 a fertilizer also, any kind of straw may be 

 used for the mulching- which prevents the 

 g-round from baking- or cracking- and main- 

 tains an equal temperature, and supplies 

 moisture for the roots. Do not fail to mulch. 



Peach trees require harsher pruning- than 

 other trees. Fig^ure 4 represents one of the 

 Peach trees as it is sent from the nursery. 



Flgrure 5 sho^vs how it should look when 

 it is planted by the customer. 



PRUNING 



Do not cut back the tops of Everg-reens 

 when planting. The limbs of all fruit and 

 shade trees, shrubs, roses, etc., should be 

 cut liack tw^o-thirds when planted. 



The stmes should now be put in condition 

 for the formation of the top by removing- 

 all the limbs to the point where it Is de- 

 sired to have the top; then cut back each 

 remaining- limb, leaving- from four to six buds 

 of last season's g-rowth. In the absence of 

 any limbs suitable to form a form a top. cut 

 the tree down to the requisite height, leav- 

 ing- the dormant buds to make the tip. 



The necessity of pruning vigorously at the 

 time of setting is generally a very ung-rate- 

 ful one to the planter, as it injures for a 

 time the appearance of the tree to an un- 

 practical eye. It should, however, be unhes- 

 itating-ly performed, all the branches to the 

 extent of at least one-half the leng-th of the 

 previous vear's growth being- removed. Cure 

 should also be used to g-ive the proper form 

 to the tree. The head may be left hig-h or 

 low. as the taste of the planter may prefer, 

 or as the nature of the tree in some cases 

 may require. 



Always remove the straw and moss from 

 the packag-e before planting-. Never put 

 manure so as to come In contact with the 

 roots of any plant or tree. Use only g-ood 

 soil on and around the roots. 



The foreg-oing- has been prepared with the 

 g-reatest care, and with a special desire to 

 aid our customers in the grow^th and care 

 of their stock. 



CULTIVATION 



Cultivate and hoe frequently. Nothing- can 

 thrive if the weeds and g-rass are allowed to 

 sap the life of the soil. Truck crops should 

 be planted in the orchard until the trees are 

 larg-e enoug-h to require all of the soils fer- 

 tility. Never plant trees in waterlog-g-ed soil. 



HOW TO SET AND GROW STRAWBERRY 

 PLANTS FOR BEST RESULTS 



The strawberry w^ill thrive in a g-reat va- 

 riety of soils and locations. Any land that 

 will g-roAA^ good corn or g-eneral farm and 

 truck crops, will g-row strawberries, if pro- 

 perly drained. Strawberries are not a success 

 in waterlog-ged land, springy land well drain- 

 ed is a grood type of soil. IT MUST BE 

 WELL DRAINED, we do not either recom- 

 mend planting- strawberries on EXTREMELY 

 hig-h land unless in a section where there is 

 ample rainfall for veg-etation, and soil is very 

 fertile, if this be the conditions they will 

 prove a g^reat success on extremely hig-h 

 sandy land. If you have g-rown strawberries 

 on your land before, there is no one a bet- 

 ter judge than yourself aboiit where they 

 should ])e planted. StravA^berries will do ex- 



ceeding-ly well following- truck croj)s. sucJi as 

 Tomatoes, Peas, Beans. Cabbage, etc.. or on 

 land that has been spread with barn-yard 

 manure, when possible the year before plants 

 are set, plant a crop of cow peas in the land, 

 they make real strawberry plant food, and 

 u e have never failed to have success with 

 St law berries, proceeded by a grood crop of 

 peas. 



Preparing- Land. The land should be ploAv- 

 ed deep, if possible, as this g-ives the water 

 chance to g-o down quick when wet, and 

 causes moisture to rise in times of droug-th. 

 Lay off the rows after you have thoroughly 

 pulverized or made smooth by use of some 

 machinery either 3% or 4 feet apart, set the 

 plants in rows 3^4 feet apart, 1 to 1% feet 

 in the row. rows 4 feet apart sets plants 1 

 foot apart in the row: either method is prac- 

 tical for field culture. See table pag-e — in 

 this catalog- for the number of plants re- 

 quired to set an acre at g-iven distances. After 

 plants are set cultivate frequently about ev- 

 ery 7 to 10 days, keep all g-rass and weeds 

 from the plants by use of a hoe, while in its 

 infancy stag-e. 



Fertilizer. Barn-yard manure spread on the 

 land before plowing- is very g-ood, if this can 

 be done we prefer it above all other manures. 

 When using- commercial fertilizer at the roots 

 one should be careful that it is put down in 

 bottom of furrow, and mixed well with the 

 soil before making- up the rows, we have 

 great success with 5 per cent ammonia, and 

 8 per cent Phosphoric acid or in other words 

 a O-8-0 used in the row, mixed with the soil 

 well before making- up the bed to set the 

 plants in. BE SURE YOU ARE NOT USING 

 ANY POTASH AT THE ROOT OF THE 

 PLANTS, as this will eat off all of the fiber 

 roots as fast as they will undertake to make, 

 when using- a commercial fertilizer, 5-8-0 ap- 

 ply about 10 lbs. to every 100 yards of row. 

 The plants should be set with a trowel or 

 flat dibble, do not leaA'e the crown of the 

 ]3lants either above or below the surface of 

 the g-round. Young- ])]ants set in the spring- 

 Avill bloom quite full; these blooms 

 should be cut off to make the plants strong-- 

 er in g-rowth, which will mean more new 

 plants and a heavier crop of fruit the next 

 fruiting- season. 



Time To Set Strawberry Plants. In the 

 south plants should be set in January, Feb- 

 ruary and March, in the middle states March 

 and April, in the Northern States APRIL. 

 Plants always for the grreatest results sliould 

 be planted just as early as you can get the 

 land ready, we have grreater success with 

 them by planting- during- the month of Feb- 

 ruary, than the month of April, but here in 

 Delaware it is not always possible to have 

 the land ready by February owing to freez- 

 ing- weather, however this is our month for 

 planting whenever possible, \\hich usually is. 

 MANY OF OUR CUSTOMERS, wait until they 

 have their land ready to set the plants l)e- 

 fo]-e placing- their order with us, or g-iving- 

 us instructions to ship, in case the order has 

 been placed before; THIS IS A MISTAKE, 

 be sure to have your plants on hand when 

 you are ready to set them; SHOULD THEY 

 REACH YOU before you are ready for them: 

 SEE healing- instructions jiage — in this cat- 

 alog, thej^ will keep in fine condition for 2 

 to 3 weeks ^vhen healed in and you have 

 them when you want them. We strongly 

 recommend this to our northern customers. 



PRUNING ROOTS 



Before setting- plants it Is b st t ^ prun the 

 roots back about one-fourth. Cutting- off the 

 ends of the roots causes them to callous, and 

 they will send out numerous feeders and will 

 make a much strong-er root system than 

 could be made if the roots were not pruned. 

 And shortening- the roots makes it easier to 

 set the plants. In doing this pruning you 

 sim])ly take a pair of shears or a sharj) knife 

 and cut about 1 inch off the loAver end of 

 the roots. A full bunch of tAventy-fl\e jilants 

 may be iirimed at fine cutting-. 



