HINTS ON SUCCESS WITH ROSES 
Roses need a good, healthy, well-drained soil, one that would grow a fair 
vegetable crop is best, and treat it as you would any garden. Give it a yearly 
addition of well-rotted manure, but do not overdo it or it will cause root-rot. 
What Roses need most is a stimulant now and then im the form of liquid manure. 
Place in a barrel, im a hidden corner of the garden, a bushel of fresh cattle manure 
or a peck of chicken droppings, and fill with water. In a few days, the water is 
ready for use. Vo apply it, dig a little trench, saucer-like, around the plant; fill 
it first with water to open up the capillaries of the soil, and when this has drained, 
fill it with the liquid manure. If not convenient, the next best substitute is 
Stim-U-Plant tablets (see page 13). Directions for use are in each package. 
Summer Disbudding 
In many sections, the Jong days of hot sunshine of midsummer interfere with the 
quality of the blooms of the Hybrid Tea Roses, most varieties at that time giving 
blooms that are smaller, off color, and of poor lasting qualities. 
Broadly speaking, there are only two seasons when roses do really bloom to per- 
fection—spring and autumn. Unless the plants are given some rest from their spring 
effort, one can hardly expect a profusion of perfect blooms in the autumn, and we know 
of some experts who prefer the autumn blooms, the color and tints being more brilliant. 
If the flower-buds are pinched off from the middle of July to about August 15 (Phila- 
delphia latitude), the late summer and autumn blooms will rival and, for some varieties, 
excel the spring blooms. 
“An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure” 
Many a good Rose has been given a bad reputation because its owner was 
unfamiliar with the causes and prevention of diseases. Of course, there are some 
strains of Roses more susceptible to diseases than others. We have endeavored 
to indicate clearly when this occurs. For example, the Pernetiana Roses, listed 
with the Hybrid Teas, as a class are most in need of protection, and wherever 
these appear in this catalogue, they are marked (Pernet.). 
The two most prevalent maladies attacking Rose plants are mildew and black- 
spot. These are not mherent to the plant any more than typhoid fever is inherent 
to the human race. They are contracted diseases caused by surrounding condi- 
tions, either atmosphere or soil, or both. If these are favorable for the mnfection, 
some plants of a weaker constitution may contract diseases quicker than others, 
the same as some people will succumb to an epidemic and others will resist 
altogether or throw it off. 
If the plants are permitted to drop their Ieaves (and such is the result of black- 
spot), they become partly, and often totally dormant, causing summer and fall 
blooming to be seriously compromised if not altogether stopped. 
The spores of these fungous diseases are wind-borne, attacking the foliage with- 
out warning when it is wet with dew or rain, and it behooves all gardeners to be 
on the safe side and use precautionary measures, without waiting until the plants 
are affected; it may then be too IJate. 
The first step in warding off diseases is to keep the plants “fit” and growmg 
vigorously by frequent hoeing and occasional feeding; then spray or preferably 
dust the plants regularly with “Star Rose Dust” (see page 13) every ten to twelve 
days, starting when the first flower-buds appear. 
Dr. L. M. Massey, of Cornell University, who is a specialist on Rose diseases 
for the American Rose Society, sponsors “Star Rose Dust’? and furthermore, 
advocates Its application contrary to usual practice, when the leaves appear to 
be dry. They are always moist enough for the dust to adhere. There follows a 
chemical reaction which covers the Jeaves with a film msulation deadly to the 
spores which may come in contact with it when the foliage becomes wet. 
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