Development in the Dark Room. By] 
it comes in contact, even to a greater degree than the iron devel- 
oper. Hydroquinon, on the contrary, is very free from this dis- 
agreeable trait, and it was this fact that led me to abandon the 
former. Hydroquinon is certainly an excellent substitute for pyro ; 
it is cleanly, and when properly prepared it is equally as vigorous 
-as the latter, keeps well, and can be used over and over again by 
the addition of a little fresh developer, without serious loss of 
power. I have found that when used with caustic potash it works 
admirably, and the only thing to be guarded against is its tendency 
in hot weather to frill the plate. This can be obviated to a great 
extent by using ice in the developer, and this is an excellent prac- 
tice to follow during the summer months whenever it can be 
conveniently done. The best formula I have ever used for hydro- 
quinon is the following : 
Nomi miyvcroquinon. {200.06 oe ee 2 dis 
SUNOIOURS, SOT TEN ay engl Aa MN risk a eek US 2 OZ 
ROMMICeseobasiie 2.2) ey ee ae 2% gr. 
\ WY BRST eof 25 aie 8 Oe an ER Ee gig ce AOE 14 OZ 
Mower Caustic FOtash. 9.05.) aos a, 45 gr. 
WY BIGSIE as SOS AY ea da Corte) aa Rae eet ele eo a tis 4 OZ 
Use four parts of No. 1 to one-half part of No. 2. 
And if I were allowed but one developer for the rest of my pho- 
tographic life, I should choose one containing hydroquinon. At 
present I am using, or rather I have in stock ready to use, a devel- 
oper made of eikonogen and soda in the following proportions: 
INMonmimemevater (distilled)... 5.08 ee ee, 18 Oz. 
Sullipinite SOda(OstS. i 2. ae ye es ee 3%‘ 
Wissolve;s Add Pikonogen’. =. 3225..-. 180 gr. 
Noreen atena(@istiled) 4 VWs a ee 18 OZ. 
. Canbomatet soda te Take ae. 1y ‘* 
Carbonate Potash en mg 
Use three parts of No. 1 to one part of No. 2. 
So far I have not had an opportunity to thoroughly demonstrate 
what it will do, and therefore I can not speak of it as fully as I 
could wish. It seems to be a very fair developer, equally good for 
bromide paper and for transparencies, as well as for dry plates, 
but I have not found it would answer for opals, for the reason 
that it discolors the film. It may be that a remedy for this can 
be found, but, as stated before, I have not worked with it suffi- 
ciently long to learn all its possibilities. 
