52 HARRISONS’ NURSERIES 
matter how beautiful and dainty the house looks, very much of the 
attractiveness is lost when evergreens and shrubs are absent. The 
majority of men, whether in the country or in the city, do not need 
arguments to convince them that home plantings will improve the 
looks of their own place and add to their own comfort. 
Many people think it takes too much money, too much skill and 
care to plan the grounds and plan them in proper order. This is an 
entirely wrong idea. In most cases, a landscape architect will not be 
needed; almost every home owner can make a reasonably good selec- 
tion of trees and shrubs that ought to be around places, and the cost 
of such stock is comparatively slight. The labor of planting amounts 
to very little, and, taking it all in all, the total expense involved is 
more than returned in the added value of the property. Of course, 
one ought to know something about the habits of the trees and shrubs 
and select those that are adapted to the location of the soil and to 
the climate. The foundation walls can be screened with low-growing 
shrubs like the barberry, the spireas, and low-growing evergreens. 
At the curves, drives, and walks, flowering shrubs in variety may be 
used to good advantage, or a special variety of evergreens, or even 
large clumps of peonies and other perennials. 
Trees and shrubs that receive proper treatment at time of planting 
are almost sure to live and thrive. Study and observation together 
with planting records, have shown that the planting hints here given 
make success almost certain. 
In preparing the ground for the trees, dig at least 2 feet deep and 
3 feet wide. Thoroughly mix the soil you take out, and then you can 
put about a foot of it back. A recent development is to use a small 
amount of dynamite in preparing the holes. Run a bar down 30 or 
4o inches, and explode a third, a half, or a whole stick at the bottom 
of the hole. The charge should not throw out the dirt, but heave it. 
Start the trees ro inches deeper than you want them to set. Sprinkle 
fine dirt in among the roots, and, as you continue to do this, jolt the 
trees up and down so as to settle the dirt in among the fine roots. 
As the hole fills up keep packing the dirt. Use a heavy maul and come 
down on the dirt with all your weight. You cannot get it too tight 
about the roots. The top inch or two of dirt, however, should be loose 
to conserve moisture. Trees finally should set just about 2 inches 
deeper than they did in the nursery. 
After planting, you may water the trees liberally. We strongly 
recommend that you mulch immediately underneath newly planted 
trees. Hay, cut straw, and buckwheat hulls are good material to use 
for this. A layer 6 inches thick is not too deep. Such a mulch will keep 
the ground damp all the time, and will prevent nearly all evaporation. 
Unless you use this mulch it will be necessary to hoe around the tree 
every week or so to keep a mulch of dust on the surface to conserve 
the moisture. The after-treatment is determined easily. 
I think it well to emphasize here that the barberry which we advise 
for hedges is known as Thunberg’s barberry, or Berberis Thunbergit, 
and its not the barberry condemned by various agricultural departments 
as the host of wheat rust. Thunberg’s barberry does not harbor this pest 
and can be planted anywhere with entire safety. 
The leaves are typical of 
Orway ap eC: the maple family, large and 
dark green, fading to golden 
yellow in fall. Trunk and branches are sturdy and strong, giving 
an effect of ruggedness to the entire planting. Branches and foli- 
age are thick and compact growing, and the head, which is 
round-topped, is carried well above the ground. 

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