IN THE SPRiNG 

 ROSE GARDEN 



Patience is a virtue which the rose gardener can 

 put to good use in the rose garden in spring. 

 I know that it is difficult to let Nature take its 

 course, and that you are eager to see your roses 

 come to life after the long "house arrest" im- 

 posed upon you by winter. None-the-less, 

 a little patience in the matter of removing winter 

 protection from rose plants will stand you in 

 good stead later on. Those late, totally un- 

 expected freezes can, as you know, set tender 

 growth back — so I'd wait, if I were you, until 

 all danger has passed before uncovering your 

 plants. Remember last spring.*^ February was 

 mild and lots of people uncovered their roses. 

 Then came a wild and wintry March! 



In removing the soil around hilled roses, take 

 care not to break off the new shoots, some of 

 which you will not be able to see until you poke 

 into the earth. After the soil is removed, prun- 

 ing is in order. Cut away the spindly, dead or 

 we£ik wood, leaving only strong, healthy canes. 

 Cut these back to a height of 12 to 18 inches if 

 I hey are Hybrid Tea roses; and to 8 to 12 inches 

 if they are Floribundas. All canes should be cut 

 back to live wood. 



When pruning, be sm"e that your shears are 

 sharp so that you will make a clean cut. A 

 ragged cut or a mashed cane end exposes the 

 bush to invasion by disease or insect life. The 

 easiest and best way is to cut on an angle. 



After your pruning and cleaning up have been 

 done, use a good commercial fertilizer such as 

 Star Rose Fertilizer to give your established 

 roses a boost . . . about 3 pounds for each 100 

 square feet of bed. 



HELPFUL HINTS 



by George Hart 



The time to start your spraying or 

 dusting schedule is when the first leaves 

 are a half inch or so in length, after which 

 you should do so regularly. However, 

 regardless of schedule, it is advisable to dust 

 or spray as soon as you can following a rain. 

 It is, of course, easier by far to prevent disease 

 than to cure it, which is why you should be 

 regular in treating your roses. 



Another matter worth mentioning now is the 

 best way to plant new roses. For your con- 

 venience, I list here a few things to do, all of 

 which are important to the plant and to your 

 own satisfaction: 



1. NEVER ALLOW ROOTS TO DRY 

 OUT. 



2. MAKE THE HOLE LARGE ENOUGH 

 TO HOLD SPREAD-OUT ROOTS. 



3. PACK SOIL TIGHTLY AROUND 

 ROOTS. 



4. WATER HEAVILY REFORE THE 

 HOLE IS COMPLETELY FILLED 

 WITH SOIL. 



5. MOUND SOIL AROUND THE CANES 

 TO HEIGHT OF 8 INCHES OR MORE 

 AND DO NOT REMOVE UNTIL 

 GROWTH REGINS TO SHOW 

 THROUGH THE MOUND. 



The reasons behind these rules (for that is 

 what they are) are obvious, but one in pai'ticu- 

 lar needs special emphasis especially in spring. 

 That is No. 5. Many people don't realize that 

 unless the canes are hilled up they may become 

 dried out by the action of sun and wind during 

 the time when the roots are estal)lislung them- 

 selves. So be sure to hill up newly |)lanle(l 

 roses. This helps them to get oil to a good 

 start. 



A further thought occurs to me — a bit of ad- 

 vice, which, if followed, will ensure 

 your success with roses. It is I his: 

 read Ihe booklet of plant I'nfi in.'ilnirlions 

 wliirli conies witli your order. This is 

 prepared simply so that the veriest 

 begirmer can be informed about 

 proper [)laii(iiig procedure. On llic 

 oilier hand, it ("ould very well help the 

 ('\[)erieru'e(l gardener, too. if oiil\ as a 

 reminder of good |)lanting practice. 



This picture illustrates the essential 

 inj;redients for rose planting: sturdy, 

 strong-caned plants kept in a bucket of 

 muddy water, 2 or 3 parts soil to 1 part 

 peat moss and fertilizer in the recom- 

 mended amount of 2 tablespoonfuls, 

 all mixed thoroughly in the planting 

 mixture. 



Copyright 1961 bv The Conard-Pyle Co. 



Printed in U.S.A. 



