136 HISTORY AND ETHNOLOGY. 



Werra valley and Schmalkalden. In general, true and upright, active and 

 industrious, the Lower Hessian, on account of the advantages he possesses, 

 in numerous towns as well as land and water communications, is inclined 

 to the pursuit of a stirring, active business life ; whilst the Upper Hessian 

 devotes himself chiefly to agriculture. He is not inferior in integrity and 

 industry to the Lower Hessian, excels him even in perseverance, is more 

 straightforward in his manners, and generally more wealthy. He is 

 distinguished by his stout frame and plain mode of life, and is ardently 

 attached to ancient customs, thus preserving a strongly marked nationality. 

 Hs still wears, for the most part, the white smock-frock, hat with flap bent 

 downwards, and short breeches. The dress of the women is either entirely 

 black, or fancy colored, with a peculiar small, double cap, and two 

 long plaits of hair falling down the back ; they wear a closely-fastened 

 bodice, lying in small folds, with short tight sleeves, over w^hich frequently 

 fall down abundantly wide ones ; a snow-white chemise, seen under these 

 sleeves ; a breast-piece, richly embroidered with gold ; a petticoat with 

 hundreds of gathers, reaching only to the knee ; shoes with high heels ; 

 and on festive occasions they add a little mantle, which is hung upon the 

 head, and which reaches only to the shoulders. T]ie native of Schwalm 

 "wears a hemispherical red or green velvet cap, which is bordered with fur, 

 and trimmed with gold lace ; in w^inter this is exchanged for one of a cylin- 

 drical shape. Not unfrequently also the married man wears a triangular 

 hat, especially when he goes abroad into the field. The waistcoat, mounted 

 with many small metal buttons, is bright red ; the coat and breeches are of 

 fine white linen. The female dress is richer ; it consists of a neat cap, 

 trimmed with red and embroidered in fancv colors ; a strino^ of coral 

 around the neck ; a bodice of blue cambric, with short sleeves turned up 

 at the elbows and richly ornamented with lace. Over the latter is worn 

 a black corset, and upon the breast lies a black breast-piece, embroidered 

 with gold and silver pearls and silk. From the hips depend eight to ten 

 short skirts, the uppermost of which is black, the others bordered with gay 

 colors. Every skirt is a little longer than the next outer one, the innermost 

 being the longest, extending, however, only to the knee. The chemise, 

 which peeps out below, is provided, moreover, with a hem of a hand's 

 breadth. The stockings are of linen, and furnished with cotton clocks ; 

 and the shoes have high heels. On extraordinary occasions the '• schappel " 

 (chaplet), a head-dress which is wrought of flowers, gold spangles, &c., and 

 sits upon the head in the manner of a tiara, takes the place of the cap. 

 Maidens only are permitted to wear fancy colors. The peasant of Fulda 

 wears a green or blue linen coat, and a furred cap or broad-brimmed 

 hat. The picturesqueness of the female dress is heightened by the long 

 hair being wound round the crown of the head, and fastened in the middle 

 with a neat wooden pin. The people of the Grand Duchy of Hesse are a 

 peaceable nation, but by no means deficient in courage when the occasion 

 demands. The natives of Rhenish Hesse are particularly lively and quick in 

 their movements. The inhabitant of the highlands displays more distinctly 

 and strongly marked peculiarities than the lowlander ; he is rude, more 

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