144 HISTORY AND ETHNOLOGY. 



ends proceed like Avings. Variously ornamented figured sleeves are worn 

 over the chemise. The two ribands hanging down from the collar attached 

 to the sleeves, are tied under the chin in a bow. Then comes the bodice. 

 In front of this is the great pasteboard stomacher covered with stuff of 

 some sort. This covers the entire chest, is flat as a board, and stands out 

 so far that nose and mouth may be nearly concealed underneath it. On 

 Sundays or holidays, as well as in cold weather, a jacket is put on over 

 the latter. The petticoat, which often reaches only to the calf of the leg, 

 is of calico, half silk, or woollen material, and is made with many gathers 

 tightly sewed together. Above this is an apron. For mourning, as well 

 as in old age, the dress is black. To the short petticoat belong very white 

 stockings, often embroidered and open-worked, with handsome figured 

 garters. The shoes and slippers, also, are frequently beautifully ornamented. 

 Women defend themselves against the weather by means of a large calico 

 cloak, or a cloth, or silk upper garment. Maidens, at weddings, or when 

 acting as godmothers, are distinguished by the " Hormt," a headdress in the 

 form of a round bandbox Avithout bottom, covered within and without with 

 red damask or velvet, and secured by ribands under the chin. Around the 

 Hormt are disposed thirteen silver plates or tablets, and upon every one 

 of them stand three rows of raised silver buttons. Silver plates, heavily 

 gilded, hang round about it on rings ; and behind, on the Hormt, are two 

 tresses of tow, which, bound around with red or green velvet riband, and 

 arched in a half circle above it, are adjusted at the forehead. BetAveen 

 these tresses is a coronet of silver tinsel, set off, if the girl is a bride, with 

 green silk, if she stands as a godmother, with red silk, and made still more 

 gaudy by the addition of gilt beads. Behind, where the two tresses meet, 

 there is a red silk riband bow, and another underneath it, to which are at- 

 tached long, flowing, fancy colored ribands. These tresses, Avhen forming a 

 part of a bridal dress, are green, at other times red. A Hormt costs from 40 

 to 100 thalers ($30 to $75), and on this account passes in the family by inher- 

 itance, or it is often lent also for particular occasions merel}^ The Aveddings 

 of the rich are celebrated Avith great expenditure of money ; and great 

 processions, on foot, or on horseback, or in Avagons, accompany the groom 

 Avhen he goes to fetch the bride. At such times the guests meet at the 

 house of the groom, and after they have been entertained with cakes, beer, 

 and AAdiiske^T^, move in couples on foot and with music, to the house of the 

 bride. If she, hoAvever, is in another village, they ride on horseback often to 

 the number of fifty or sixty men, folloAved by forty or fifty Avomen in Avagons. 

 The musicians at the head, on horseback, or in Avagons, play cheerful airs ; 

 then comes the inviter to the Avedding, Avho leads the nearest relations of the 

 groom ; next foUoAvs the groom himself, Avith his tAVO groomsmen (Avho are 

 brothers or near relations of his), and finally the guests above referred 

 to. All the horses are provided Avith Avhite, yelloAA', red, and black harness, 

 adorned Avith ribands ; the tail having, moreover, tAvigs of box tree, or a 

 nosegay of floAvers, attached to it. Maidens, adorned Avith the Hormt, accom- 

 pany the bride. Our space Avill not permit us to describe the wedding festival 

 itself 

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