152 HISTORY. AND ETHNOLOGY. 



broadly plaited collar, linen petticoat and apron, a wide, coarse cloth frock, 

 without sleeves, over the articles first mentioned, and a blue or black woollen 

 belt around the waist, constitute the attire of these women. 



The Tyrolese are divided into the German in the north and the Italian 

 in the south. The German Tyrolese are handsome, often rather lank, but 

 at the same time muscular. They have small eyes, open countenances, 

 high and broad shoulders ; are hale, vigorous, and active, to an advanced 

 age. Many a Tyrolese mountaineer might serve as a model of manly 

 beauty ; the women, on the contrary, are but seldom very beautiful. . Those 

 of the district of Innsbruck, however, are often noticed for an attractive 

 physiognomy, oval face, sometimes dark, sometimes light hair, and hand- 

 some brown eyes, and always for their fair skin. In other districts, on the 

 other hand, the women have such colossal figures, that they form the great- 

 est contrast with those of Innsbruck. The dialects of Tyrol differ, but may 

 be ranked in three principal groups : that of Bregenz, that of the valley of 

 the Lower Inn, and that of the valley of the Zill. The first is of AUemannic 

 derivation, and still has many ancient German forms of speech ; the second 

 is the softest, is easy and careless ; the third, on the contrary, is energetic 

 and harsh, with strong accentuation of the guttural sounds. The two last 

 ones are made up of Bavarian roots. The dress of the Tyrolese is pictu- 

 resque, but diffierent in every valley. The Passeyrian {pi. 3, jigs. 12 and 13, 

 man and woman) has his brown jacket bordered with red and green ; his 

 suspenders are brown, and his green hat is bordered with yellow. Short 

 black breeches, a violet breast-piece under the suspenders, a broad black 

 leather belt around the waist, white stockings, which only extend from the 

 foot to the upper end of the calf, leaving a bare space below the knee, and 

 shoes trimmed with red ribands, constitute the remainder of his dress. 

 The women, on the contrary, are unbecomingly dressed, as the large thick 

 quilted cap, open jacket with short sleeves rufiled at the wrists, the wide, 

 long, full petticoat, wide apron, and the waist (anything but diminutive), 

 give them a very awkward appearance. The woman of Bregenz {fig. 11) 

 wears a similar cap, somewhat more conical, a long, black, full petticoat, 

 which is cut out angularly at the breast and trimmed with a border. A 

 piece of gold embroidery, or a white chemisette, is displayed above this. 

 The gown reaches to the ankles. After those of the Zill valley, the women 

 of Bregenz are esteemed the handsomest. The inhabitant of the Zill valley 

 {figs. 14 and 15) wears a large tapering hat, adorned with the beard of the 

 chamois, flowers, and cock feathers ; a red breast-piece, bordered with yellow 

 or gold ; a coarse brown woollen jacket ; short breeches ; a black leather 

 girdle, embroidered with peacocks' quills (the name of the owner being 

 inserted in the middle of it) ; white stockings, and black shoes of the ordi- 

 nary kind. A black handkerchief is tied around the neck. The women 

 wear green, or, more commonly, black hats, of the same kind : the remainder 

 of their dress does not differ, at present, in style from that usually worn 

 in Germany. The peasants of Botzen wear long brown coats ; those of 

 Pusterthal, short breeches and jackets, dark vests, black leather belts, white 

 or blue stockings ; those of the valley of the Upper Inn, short black breeches, 

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