186 HISTORY AND ETHNOLOGY. 



of taffeta or satin, having very wide sleeves that reach to the elbows, with or 

 without fur trimming, according to the season of the year. The under gown 

 is of thinner silk, or gold and silver brocade ; likewise long, open at the 

 bosom, and with sleeves that reach to the hand. A girdle of leather, satin, or 

 embroidered velvet, sometimes a Cashmere shawl, is loosely tied around the 

 waist. The girdle is usually the most costly part of the dress. Wide silk 

 trowsers reach to the ankles ; precious stones and pearls are necessary requi- 

 sites of ladies' dress ; rich armlets and necklaces are also frequently worn. 

 Persons of less wealth wear sequins, or other gold coins, around the neck. 

 PL l,Jig' 3, Turk in the ancient national dress. PL IS, Jig. 1, a. Turban of 

 the inhabitants of Lebanon ; b, Turban of Armenian merchants at Damascus 

 c. Turban of the people in the district of Smyrna ; e, of the Bethlehemites 

 /, of the people of Syria generally ; g, Kaffich of the people of Beyrout 

 h, Travelling turban ; i. Head-dress for rainy weather ; q, Turkish fez 

 s, Dervise's cap. Pig- 2, Syrian Sheikh and his wife ; Jig. 3, ancient 

 female dress of the Smyrniotes ; Jig. 4, modern female dress of the Levant ; 

 Jig. 5, dress of the Maronites ; Jigs. 6 — 8, Maronite women ; Jig. 9, dress of 

 girls of Nablous ; Jig. 10, costume of the Nazarenes ; Jig. 16, Armenian mer- 

 chant ; Jig. 17, Armenian girl ; Jig. 18, Turk of Mardin. PL 14, Jig. 1, 

 Turkish public bath for females ; Jig. 2, the interior of a Turkish woman's 

 apartment ; Jig. 3, the Tftar, meal of the Grand Yizier with the other 

 ministers of the Porte, on the third night of the Ramazan. Fig- 4, cere- 

 monies in the presence chamber, on the day before the festival of Beiram. 

 There are, properly speaking, two Beirams, the only religious festivals of the 

 Mohammedans. The first, Id-Jitr, i. e. breaking of the fast, comes im- 

 mediately after the fast of Ramazan, and is called Beiram Kutshuck, or 

 Kitschi-Beii^am, that is, the little Beiram. As it closes the fast, and is cele- 

 brated with great manifestations of joy. it is called the Easter of the Turks, 

 and considered their greatest festival. The second, Id-Adha, or Kiirhaan- 

 Beirani, that is to say, festival of the sacrifice, is celebrated seventy days 

 afterwards : it is said to be a celebration of the offering of Ishmael (Isaac). 

 As the Mohammedans calculate time by lunar years, these festivals run 

 through all seasons in a period of thirty-three years. The first festival con- 

 tinues properly but one day, but it is kept up by the people for three days ; 

 the second, four days. These two festivals are the only true holidays of the 

 nation, and are celebrated with the greatest pomp. At an early hour the 

 Sultan receives the congratulations of the principal officers of state in solemn 

 audience ( p/. 14, Jig. 4), and then goes with great parade to the mosque. 

 After devotions, the officers of state are feasted, sixteen of them presented 

 with sable furs, and then the changes in the government are determined 

 upon. / 



PL 14, Jig. 5, represents a religious dance of Turkish dervises, which con- 

 sists of a continual whirling in a circle, causing a great puffing out of the 

 wide dress. Pig. 6, prayer and ablution of Mohammedans, prescribed by 

 the Koran, which ordains the fast of Ramazan, the distribution of alms, 

 works of charity, the performance of at least one pilgrimage to Mecca, 

 prayers offered at least five times a day, and the outward cleansing of the 

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