ETHNOLOGY OF THE TRESENT DAY. 1 89 



National costume is no longer found among the liiglicr classes ; the cloak, 

 however, in which the Italian wraps himself during the day, is the most im- 

 portant part of his dress. Should he possess no such article, he at least hangs 

 his jacket over his shoulder in the manner of a cloak. 



The inhahitants of the Sardinian Monaic/nj, who are a mixture composed 

 chiefly of French, Romans, Lombards, may be divided into four principal 

 branches: the Savo^'ards, Piedmont ese, Genoese, and Sardes. 



Among the Piedmontese, married women, widows, and girls, are some- 

 times distinguished by their dress, chiefly by the breadth and number of 

 rows of red ribands upon the aprons. The dress of the women of the 

 region of Costa is very neat ; they wear a short, tightly-fitting brown 

 petticoat, with a frill at the breast, and a small hat fastened sideways upon 

 the head. Their hair is tastefully braided, and fastened with combs or 

 silver pins. Older persons wear a linen veil. No attention, however, is 

 paid to cleanliness, particularly by the lower classes. The common 

 Genoese still wear the old Genoa cap, a cloth jacket, short breeches, with 

 w^oollen stockings, and not unfrequently gaiters ; the women attach their veils 

 with address and taste. They cover the head and arms in such a manner, 

 hoAvever, that their charms are by this means only placed in a more advanta- 

 geous light. 



The head-dress of the women of the maritime districts of Genoa^ those 

 for example living in the vicinity of the town of Chiavari, is odd. Their 

 hair is neatly braided, and fastened in a thick roll upon the top of the head. 

 Upon this they place a cloth folded together in a square form, and fasten it 

 firmly by means of a large pin. In unfiivorable weather it is unfolded and 

 tied round the head. The country girls secure their braids of hair with 

 five or six large silver hair pins. Women of the vicinity of Nice wear a 

 tight bodice, adorned on holidays wdth ribands and bouquets of flowers. 

 The petticoat, which is pretty long, and the apron, are without ornament. 

 Girls wear woollen gowns, marriage only conferring the right to wear silk 

 dresses. 



The holiday attire of the men consists of a short, tightly-fastened waistcoat, 

 reaching only to the girdle, and a very short coat, having short sleeves with 

 narrow cuffs. Their belt is blue or red. Short breeches, and brown or blue 

 woollen stockings, and low shoes, complete the dress. When not in full dress, 

 both sexes wear their hair in a green net. 



The inhabitants of the Island of Sardinia (Sardes) are a mixture of sev- 

 eral nations ; the Italians, however, constitute the majority. They are not 

 tall, but of a vigorous frame ; are gay, courageous, persevering, susceptible of 

 love, but implacable in hatred. Their minds are fine and pliable ; they have 

 a particular talent for poetry ; but little is done for their instruction, 

 and they are still almost mere men of nature. The Sarde is very fond 

 of music, games of chance, skill, or courage, and other recreations. The 

 dress of the common people consists of a woollen jacket, mostly white 

 or scarlet, over which is worn a wide and long smock-frock without 

 sleeves, and made of sheepskins sewed together, resembling a vest ; 

 this is fastened around the waist by a leather belt embroidered with silk, 



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