CHANGES AND STRANGE SCENES 
ever of the science of navigation, and sail their vessels 
by cross bearings, or—when out of sight of land—by 
sheer instinct. 
During the whole time that the traders are absent, 
gloom reigns in Hanuabada. At nightfall the de- 
solate women bar themselves into their houses, and 
remain in the most jealous seclusion until the daylight 
reappears. It is a most unflattering reflection that 
this custom has only arisen since Europeans first came 
to Papua. 
From Port Moresby I intended to go sixty miles 
westward to Yule Island, and thence push into the 
interior of British New Guinea, where I proposed to 
pursue the special scientific work for which my expe- 
dition had been undertaken. The point which I 
intended to use as my centre of operations would 
require a journey up country of at least three weeks’ 
duration, through an almost unknown region, where 
only native paths existed, or, at the best, a missionary 
road extending for a short distance. Wheeled trafic 
was, of course, impossible, and everything would have 
to be transported by carriers. ‘The first necessity was, 
therefore, to procure transport, a work of infinite diffi- 
culty ; but at last, chiefly through the great assistance 
and courtesy of Mr. Hislop, then resident magistrate of 
the district of Mekeo, sixty miles west of Port Moresby, 
I obtained a sufficient number of carriers. Mr. 
Hislop then took the trouble to go as far inland with 
me as our first halting-place, Epa, in order to help 
me and to use his influence to persuade the natives 
to give me their services. The gross weight of the 
baggage to be carried must have been, at least, 
78 
