UPS AND DOWNS 
On the evening of Friday the 29th May we managed 
to get under the shelter of Yule Island, inside the reef, 
and into smoother water. ‘This was fortunate, for that 
night it blew a hurricane, and there was a heavy sea, 
even where we were lying. When daylight broke we 
went on, and anchored off the mission station at Yule 
Island, whence we sent word to Port Moresby by 
whaleboat that, owing to our disabled condition, it 
would be impossible for us to go there to clear, for 
the Customs regulations are that all vessels crossing 
to New Guinea must clear at Port Moresby, Samurai, 
or Daru. Of course, we could not beat up to Port 
Moresby against the S.E. monsoon without sails, 
so we lay there five days, until the whaleboat re- 
turned with our clearance. Our stay was any- 
thing but pleasant, for we had to remain on board 
the small ketch under a blazing sun, as we were 
unable to land until we got our clearance from the 
Customs. 
There was, however, one remarkable diversion 
during this weary time of waiting; for on our arrival 
we found, to our surprise, a large iron sailing-ship at 
anchor in the sound—certainly the largest vessel that 
ever entered it. She proved to be the W. C. Watjen, 
a German barque that had gone through a terrible 
experience in the very centre of the typhoon, the tail 
of which had given us so much trouble. I made 
friends with the captain—a hero in his way—who, 
without being aware of what an extraordinary feat of 
seamanship he had performed, told me in the quietest 
possible manner one of the most wonderful tales of 
the sea it has ever been my lot to hear. It was 
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