LAST JOURNEY TO THE COAST 
remaining baggage until I could get down to Epa, 
where I trusted that my old friend Mavai would send 
it in relays for me to Oo-fa-fa. 
At Epa things looked rather hopeless, for not only 
did five of my carriers bolt, leaving me saddled with 
their loads, but Mavai proved a broken reed. My 
ancient ally was no longer a white man, and for some 
unexplained reason had turned very uncivil. When I 
asked for carriers he said he had “no people,” but 
his village seemed as populous as ever, and the same 
numbers streamed in from the yam patch in the even- 
ing. I hada big talk with him over night, but could 
make no terms with him. Next morning Harry and I 
again had a long quiet talk with his Highness, and at 
last he relented so far that he ascended his platform, 
but did not don the persuasive red coat. He waxed 
fairly eloquent, gesticulated wildly, and at last, about 
7 p.M., things took a better turn, and the first carriers 
consented to engage with us. ‘Then the right honour- 
able gentleman resumed his seat, having spoken just 
over half-an-hour. Next day they sulkily picked up 
their loads and set out. Mavai himself, believing 
that example was better than precept, marched with 
the first detachment. He himself shouldered a load. 
Thus we got everything away with the exception of 
two loads, the carriers in charge of which sat sullenly 
in their house. Finally, Harry and I had to go over 
and make these two fellows pick up their burdens, 
and thus we took leave of Epa. 
The journey to Oo-fa-fa was accomplished in very 
sultry, trying weather, through a country that afforded 
little shade. The ground was stony, broken here 
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