THE HOME GARDENERS 



TIAtE TABLE 



Cultural directions telling how to plant will be found at the heading of each class of vegetables throughout this Catalog, as well as 

 being printed on every package of Maule's Seeds. The table below tells what to plant at certain periods to get the best results. 



January 1— February 25 



The Maule Seed Book is distributed in January. Look it over 

 carefully and make up your seed order. Include at least a few 

 varieties you have never grown before. An early order for 

 Maule's Seeds will assure you of getting^ everything wanted, and 

 you will be ready to plant when conditions are most favorable. 



If you want to raise strong, healthy plants for transplanting 

 outside in the spring, this is the time to prepare your hotbed or 

 cold frame. Instructions for this are given below. 



Follow the practical instructions given in The Maule Seed 

 Book. Success in your gardening efforts will thus be insured. 



February 25— March 30 



Sow in greenhouse, hotbed or indoors in shallow boxes or pots, 

 seeds of Artichoke, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Early Cabbage, 

 Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Egg Plants, Ground Cherry, Let- 

 tuce, Peppers, Tobacco, and Tomatoes. 



After ATarch 15, or as soon as the ground can be worked, plant 

 Asparagus seed or roots. Beets, Carrots, Cress, Dandelion, Horse 

 Radish Sets, Leek, Lettuce, Mustard, Onion Sets or seed. Smooth 

 Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Rhubarb Roots and Spinach. 



Asparagus beds may now be top-dressed with stable manure 

 and given an application of salt. 



April 1— May 10 



As soon as all possible danger of frost is past, plants of Arti- 

 choke, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Early Cabbage, Cauliflower 

 and Lettuce may be set outdoors. 



As a protection for early plants against frost, rain, wind and 

 insects, we can highly recommend the use of Hotkaps. They are 

 offered on page 53. 



Plant Asparagus Seed or roots. Bush Beans, Beets, Brussels 

 Sprouts, Carrots, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Collards, Corn 

 Salad, Early Corn, Cress, Dandelion, Endive, Garlic Sets, Herbs, 

 Horse Radish Sets, Kale, Kohl Rabi, Leek, Lettuce, Mustard, 

 Onion seed or sets, Parsley, Parsnips, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, 

 Rhubarb seed or roots. Salsify, Sorrel, Spinach, Swiss Chard and 

 Early Turnips. 



May 10— June 15 



If not yet set out in the open ground, re-set or transplant Egg 

 Plants, Ground Cherry, Peppers, Tobacco and Tomato plants, 

 as well as Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Early Cabbage, Cauliflower 

 and Lettuce plants. 



Plant in the open: Asparagus roots. Beans of all kinds, Lima 

 Beans, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Late Cabbage, Carrots, 

 Cauliflower, Chicory, Collards, Corn Salad, Corn, Cress, Cucum- 

 bers, Dandelion, Garlic Sets, Herbs, Horse Radish Sets, Kale, 

 Kohl Rabi, Leek, Lettuce, Mangels, Muskmelons, Mustard, 

 Okra, Onion seed or sets, Parsley, Parsnip, Peanuts, Peas, 

 Potatoes, Pumpkins, Radishes, Rhubarb seed or roots, Salsify, 

 Sorrel, Spinach, Sunflower, Squash, Swiss Chard, Early Turnips 

 and Watermelons. 



June 15— July 20 



Sow outdoors: Bush Beans, Bush Limas, Beets, Carrots, 

 Chicory, Collards, Corn, Cress, Cucumbers, Endive, Kale, Kohl 

 Rabi, Lettuce, Okra, White Welsh Onion, Potatoes, Summer and 

 Winter Radishes, Rutabaga, Sorrel and Swiss Chard. 



Set out plants of Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Late Cabbage, 

 Cauliflower, Celeriac and Celery. 



July 20— August 31 



At this time many of the vegetables that were planted early 

 have matured and should be followed by others, but the probable 

 time of the first frost in each locality must be considered before 

 deciding what to plant. 



Sow the following for a late fall crop: Bush Beans, Chinese 

 Cabbage, Collards, Kale, Lettuce, Mustard, Early Peas, all 

 Radishes, Spinach and Turnips. 



September 1 — October 15 



Sow no later than September 15: Corn Salad, Kale, Lettuce 

 and Spinach for late fall or early spring use. Celery plants should 

 be slightly banked up. 



Any of these vegetables wanted for early spring use should be 

 covered with a few inches of hay, leaves or litter the last of 

 November and left on during the winter. 



Until October 15: Asparagus roots. Horse Radish Sets, Onion 

 Sets and Rhubarb roots may be planted. These require no pro- 

 tection, but a covering will prove beneficial. 



October 15— December 31 



Continue banking up Celery plants. After a few light frosts, 

 when the ground is dry, dig roots of Beets, Carrots, Celeriac, 

 Parsnips, Winter Radishes, Rutabaga, Salsify and Turnips; 

 remove tops all but an inch or two which will prevent bleeding 

 or drying out. Store either in pit outdoors or in boxes indoors, 

 covering roots with dry sand or soil. 



Store Cabbage outdoors by placing heads close together, roots 

 up, and cover with straw and soil. 



TTnr»r»r»taTit "KTrtto- The cultural suggestions are 

 XALL_pui ICtlLl X'VWPie. based on climatic conditions 

 in the latitude of Philadelphia. Farther south, allow one week to 

 two months earlier. Farther north, allow one to four weeks later, 

 according to the climatic conditions where you live. 



The Care of Your Soil 



Heavy clay should be mixed with sifted coal ashes or sand. 

 Sandy soil should be mixed with coarse manure. On all soils a 

 wheelbarrow load of manure to every two square yards of ground 

 will be enough. 



When stable manure is not obtainable, the use of commercial 

 fertilizers, such as Vigoro or Pulverized Sheep Manure (page S3) 

 will prove highly productive. 



If your garden is large it should be plowed; if small, it may be 

 dug. The soil should be worked to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. An 

 application of fertilizer or Sheep Manure may be spread on this 

 plowed or dug ground and harrowed or raked in. The ground is 

 now ready for planting. Sow seeds as suggested on the seed bags. 



Cultivation is necessary between the plants in a row as well as 

 between the rows themselves. If you will do this thoroughly and 

 often, your soil will get all the air and moisture it needs, and you 

 will keep down the weeds at the same time. 



How to Make a Hotbed 

 or Cold Frame 



Select a southern or southeastern exposure. Make a box-like 

 frame of heavy lumber, as wide and as long as desired, the back 

 of the frame being 12 in. high and the front 8 in. high. Dig a 

 pit about 1 Yi ft. deep, fill with fresh stable manure. Pack manure 

 down firmly until it is level with surrounding earth. On top of 

 this manure put rich, light and well-sifted soil to a depth of 4 in. 

 Cover the frame with glass sashes; the manure will generate heat. 

 In a few days the heat will have reached its highest point and 

 start to drop. When it has fallen to 80 or 90 degrees, seeds 

 may be sown. 



It is not necessary to ventilate the bed until the seed comes up, 

 when air should be given on every bright day by raising the sash 

 slightly at the back. Coverings of old carpet, salt hay or boards 

 should be used at night to protect against danger of the cold. On 

 bright, sunny days, before noon, water should be given the 

 plants. Give enough ventilation to dry up any moisture that 

 might be on or around plants. Water very sparingly during wet 

 or cloudy weather to prevent mildew. 



The cold frame is used for hardening plants started in the 

 hotbed. It is built like a hotbed, but without the pit or manure, 

 the frame resting on the surface of the ground. In mild climates, 

 seed may be started in a cold frame instead of a hotbed. 



For a Beilei Garden, be sure io get your seeds from WM. HENRY MAULE 



