Afrit, 2, 1885.1 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



183 



stopped, divided the meat once more, and started on again, 

 carrying' only a single quarter, 



After we had seen the deer, and just as 1 was stealing up 

 to make my shot, I was interested in the curious actions of a 

 beautiful pine grosbeak. It flew down from the spruces, and 

 alighting on some low twigs which stood up above the snow 

 just in front of me, hopped about in a most uneasy and 

 anxious manner, whistling sweetly. As 1 advanced toward 

 the game it took short flights before me, scarcely moving out 

 of the way, and continually uttering it clear warningwhistle, 

 as if urging me not to shoot. It was a young male, and had 

 a brilliant red head and pinkish -gray body. I was quite im- 

 pressed by the bird's actions and apparent intent, although I 

 did not permit them to interfere with what I was doing. 



We reached the camp at 2:30, and shortly after dinner 

 Saddlerneyer took a mule and went up on to the hill for the 

 remainder of the meat. During the afternoon I again tried 

 to induce the fish to rise, but without success. That they 

 are abuudant in this stream cannot, however, he doubted, 

 since fishhawks and kingfishers are abundant. One of the 

 former alighted in a tree within thirty steps of the camp, 

 and the sharp, rattling cry of Oeri/!e was heard at frequent 

 intervals through the day. 



It rained and snowed all the afternoon, and Saddlerneyer 

 did not get back to camp until nearly 8 o'clock, and when 

 he anivedhe was of course wet, cold and hungry, but not- 

 withstanding these discomforts, he was as cheerful and 

 merry as possib le. 



NOVA SCOTIA TROUT AND SNOWS. 



NOT far to the east of me now is the famed River St. 

 Mary's, from which have been taken such quantities of 

 salmon ; and as to the toothsomeness of the fish from this 

 same river, I am willing to testify at any tit time and place, 

 And it seems also that every lake in the Province (and the 

 lakes here number like the sloughs in Minnesota) every 

 stream and every river that empties into the sea holds innum- 

 erable quantities of the nimble trout iu all the varieties of 

 lake, brook and sea. But as to the specific differences be- 

 tweeu kinds, "those to the manor born," appear to be unable 

 to agree. Of course, at this season there is no game in these 

 fish, 'though they are continually being caught by fishing 

 through holes cut in the ice, the ice ranging from two to three 

 feet in thickness, and the bait, beef or pork. We have had 

 them several times this week, and to me the flavor is some 

 what muddy, though as a fact, I do not know that I have 

 ever tasted mud ; I only imagine what it does taste like. All 

 the trout I have ever seen in the Province have had a decided 

 pinkish or salmon color, although I have heard reference 

 made to fish of a perfectly white "flesh. 



A resident told me the other night of the best catch he 

 ever made on Lake Sailome, a mile away, last year. After 

 indulging in the sport for several hours, and returning to 

 the water the uninjured smaller fish, he brought back to camp 

 120 pounds of trout, sixty pounds of which was represented 

 by thirty-two fish. He is a splendid specimen of physical 

 development, yet he explained the means he took to carry 

 such a load, and then remarked that every few rods he was 

 obliged to stop and rest. Prom the character of the man, 

 and the avouchment of the story generally, I am satisfied 

 that the foregoing is an unvarnished tale. So much for fish. 



As I write in this cabin there look down upon me two 

 pairs of moose antlers, which remind me that this identical 

 region only a few years ago, five or six at least, was one of 

 the best hunting grounds in the Province. When I was here 

 last, moose was a not uncommon dish on the table. The 

 lightning-gaited caribou is still in the neighborhood, and is 

 reported this winter in large droves. They seem to be 

 hunted very little, or at least not successfully so, and are not 

 credited with being good eating. Perhaps this is only an- 

 other case of ' 'sour srapes. " • The rabbit can be found here at 

 any time aud iu any quantities. The partridge also, with the 

 squirrel and the porcupine; the latter is in some cases eaten. 



Most of the foregoing I give as a matter of hearsay ; my 

 necessities having generally confined me to immediate sur- 

 roundings of a strictly practical geological nature. This 

 mining district, one of many in the Province, is perhaps the 

 most isolated and difficult of access of all. In a direct line 

 we are perhaps eighty five miles northeast of the city of 

 Halifax. To reach this city one goes twenty miles south to 

 the coast line over almost a mere trail, crossing the East 

 River twice (in winter on the ice and in the summer by ford- 

 ing) to Sheet Harbor, where three times a wesk, he can take 

 the Royal Mail stage, and the second night be lauded in that 

 well-fortified, but sleepy city. Or he can walk, climb and 

 sometimes wade for thirty-two miles, going north, and reach 

 a station on the Intercolonial Railroad, then only six hours 

 from the same city. I never go over either route but I 

 afterward wish I had gone by the other. Coming in by the 

 first route, we had to wait a day at Sheet Harbor for the 

 effects of a rain storm to somewhat disappear and the weather 

 to harden. The weather did accommodate us promptly, for 

 when I left in tha sleigh the next morning at 5 o'clock the 

 thermometer was at zero. The crossing of tbe river was 

 unique to me. Over two feet of ice was a foot of water, and 

 over that a shell of ice an inch thick. We managed finally 

 to make the passage after the driver, in his sealskin larigans, 

 had been obliged to get out and break a way through the 

 shell ice for the horse. Without this heroic treatment I fear 

 that the horse and sleigh would have remained there to be 

 frozen in and we should have been obliged to wade ashore. 



This is a country that can out-thermometer any other of 

 my acquaintance. Fortunately I brought a Fahrenheit with 

 me. For the past week it lias seemed the thing that it 

 should register from 25° to 30° from noon till 3 or 4 o'clock. 

 Then the mercury begins to show its weary condition, and 

 without any reaction till 7 or 8 P. M,, when it reaches the 

 place of the cipher. Then it seems to halt a little, but 

 shortly continues down and down, as if Facilis descensus 

 Aeerni were its motto. Last night, when through writing 

 at 12:30 and ready to retire, having through the evening 

 gradually invested myself in fur cap, muffler, arctics and- 

 overcoat over my knees, and having kept up in the cabin a 

 roaring fire in the wood stove, I went out to the ther- 

 mometer and found it at 11° minus. I should add that I 

 ■cannot complain of badly- ventilated apartments. The air 



never is close or vitiated, f can generally tell from which 

 direction the wind is blowing without going outside. 



To-day we have been treated to an additional White 

 blanket of eight inches thickness, as if the several feet of 

 covering were not already enough to keep the ground com- 

 fortably warm. Last week I found it necessary to use snow 

 shoes, and I made my first essay with them, and very much 

 to my astonishment,' with great success. 1 had supposed 

 that it required some time to learn how to use them with any 

 degree of rapidity. Away from the beaten track it is just sim- 

 ply impossible to go without snow shoes. Hyperborean. 



Fifteen -Mil it Stream District, Nova Scotia, March 10. 



ROUGHING IT IN THE NATIONAL PARK. 



IT. 



IT snowed all night, and the next morning everything was 

 covered with a white mantle. After breakfast we broke 

 camp. We had made arrangements at the Hot Springs for 

 an extra team of horses to pull us up Terrace Mountain. 

 The snow the night before made the road very slippery. The 

 irrade is heavy, and a loaded team even with four horses can 

 scarcely make the summit in less than half a day. At the 

 brow of the mountain the road passes for a mile through a 

 forest of fir, pine and cedar, until it reaches pretty Swan 

 Lake. Two or three miles further we come to the middle 

 fork of the Gardiner River and Valley, and camped at the 

 upper end of it in Willow Park, where the pasturage was good, 

 there beiug no other camping place nearer than ten miles be- 

 yond. On our way we passed through the Obsidian Canon, a 

 volcanic formation, which glistens like jet, the intense black 

 being sometimes variegated with streaks of red and yellow. 



Wednesday. Sept. 17. The weather was flue and the 

 scenery grand. We passed Beaver Lake, a beautiful sheet 

 of water, and resort of many wild geese, ducks, cranes and 

 other water fowl. Gibbon Canon was a little rough on our 

 horses, but by slow and steady pulling wegaiued the summit 

 of the Divide. A few rods to the left of the road is the 

 beautiful Lake of the Woods, surrounded by a growth of 

 dense and majestic pines. Leaving this lovely spot, we 

 traveled through an open park area showing many vestiges 

 of former hot springs, and after fording Gibbon River, came 

 into view of the first active geysers and pitched tent. 



The Norris Geyser Basin is wonderful for its spouting 

 geysers, clouds of vapor and overpowering odors of sulphur. 

 It "is the first "fire hole" area encountered on entering 

 the Park from the Mammoth Hot Spring. The whole 

 vast basin is a collection of hot springs and 

 pools, varying in different colors, some black, some 

 white, and some as yellow as sulphur. The earth 

 rumbles and shakes, and the air is hot with unpleasant 

 odors. Where the water does not boil over the crust; 

 it seethes and gurgles beneath. Some of the springs 

 are "frying-pans" which sputter and sizzle violently, some 

 are "paint pots," which boil incessantly their pasty clay of 

 diverse colors with noisy sputterings. There are some geysers 

 which seem in perpetual action, obscuring the sun with their 

 steam, one near the road is a large "mud pot." A smoking 

 hole near by sends out an awful roar of superheated steam, 

 this is named "Steamboat Vent." On the left of the road, 

 near the "mud pot," is the Emerald Pool, its large basin full 

 of the purest green bluish water. Not far off is the "Minute 

 Geyser" discharging every minute a bold stream of water to 

 the height of twenty' -five to thirty feet. 



The next morning we left the Norris Geyser Basin, passing 

 on our way the "Monarch" and "Fearless" geysers of great 

 splendor. We forded the river three times, the last time with 

 great, difficulty. We drove along the river until we came to 

 the Gibbon Cation, and made the Gibbon Falls at lunch. 

 Frank took his rod and flies along, and caught some fine 

 trout and grayling. We camped on the Madison River, uear 

 the forks of the Firehole River, and the next day drove to 

 Marshall's hotel near the Lower Geyser Basin, where we left 

 all superfluous truck, to lighten our load as much as 

 possible. Leaving Marshall's we forded the Firehole 

 River, a large but Ashless stream, fed by hot springs 

 and camped four or five miles from the hotel, where we found 

 good feed for the ponies, splendid water and wood. 



The next morning we started early. The road was very 

 rough and steep, but after the heights are climbed a beautiful 

 mountain and forest scenery is unfolded; now the road 

 passes through noble woods until we see Mary's Lake before 

 us. This lake is in deep seclusion among the towering piues 

 which are reflected on its surface as in a mirror. Camped 

 on the Yellowstone River, we had roasted mallard and squir- 

 rel for supper, after which we turned into our w r agon bed. 

 Sunday, Sept. 21, we reached the lake, a beautiful sheet of 

 water in asettingof snow-capped mountains. Looked upon 

 from Stormy Point, the picture it presents is one of most 

 enchanting loveliness, the silvery water is covered by myriads 

 of different waterfowl, its margin is fringed with rugged 

 mountains and timbered bluffs. The next morning "we 

 started for the falls and canon, which we made by noon. 



This wonderful gorge of the Grand Canon displays a scene 

 of enchantment surpassing all imaginations, it reveals the 

 most varied and astonishing grouping of crags and rocks 

 which eye ever beheld. Not alone is the gaze entranced by 

 the great variety of towering rocks, but also by the marvel- 

 ous magnificence of this vast gorge in the brilliant tints of 

 every hue. The underlying color is the clearest yellow; this 

 flushes onward into orange. At the base, the deepest mosses 

 are draped in the most vivid green, interspersed with spec- 

 tral-slaring white rocks. It is a wilderness of color, and in- 

 describable for pen or brush, one of Nature's most beautiful 

 masterpieces, impressing us with overwhelming feeling of 

 our own insignificance. 



Sept. 23. We started back to Marshall's, passing the sul- 

 phur mountains and sulphur springs, which are at the foot 

 of the buttes. The fumes are quite powerful and disagree- 

 able. The deposits of sulphur are very pure, and there are 

 great heaps of it in bright yellow crystals amounting to 

 hundreds of tons. From Marshall's we drove to the Upper 

 Geyser Basin, which we reached toward evening. We camped 

 near the Firehole River, and were fortunate enough to see 

 the Grand Geyser spout, displaying a spectacle of wonderful 

 beauty and majestic power that well befits its name. The 

 Grand usually gives two exhibitions at irregular intervals in 

 the course of twenty six hours. The display continues with 

 constantly increasing power, throwing a column of water 

 200 feet high. Duriug the eruption a vent 30 feet from the 

 geyser blows off steam with tremendous force. 



Next morning, after an early breakfast, I saddled one of 

 the ponies, aud left Frank in camp. My first visit was to 

 " Old Faithful," well named for the great regularity of his 

 eruptions, which always begin with a dozen or moresplashes 

 or spurts, becoming more and more powerful, until they 

 are followed by a rapid succession of jets, which escape 

 with a roar, throwing a column of water from 100 to 150 



feet, while clouds of steam accompany the water and reach 

 a much greater height. The eruption takes place at intervals 

 ranging from fifty-four to eighty minutes. From here I 

 went to * 'The, Bee Hive. " It is easily distinguished by its bee- 

 hive cone, but I did not see it spout. About 400 feet from 

 here, on a higher level, is the " Giantess." This is the most 

 powerful and highest spouting geyser. The eruption is uot 

 regular, occurring once in fourteen days, but is one of the 

 greatest beauty and grandeur. West of the " Giantess,'' 

 upon a mound, are the "Lion," "Liouess," and " Two 

 Cubs." The Lioness aud Cubs lie close together, and were 

 in action at the same time, making a beautiful display, 

 although they do not send up a very high column of water. 

 Not far off is "The Saw Mill," a very active little geyser. 

 Its eruptions are quite frequent and attract attention by the 

 harsh, burring noise. Near by is " The Spasmodic." Both 

 of these I saw spout. 



The " Castle" geyser shoots out a column of water from 

 50 to 100 feet, accompanied by a tremendous rush of steam. 

 Before each eruption deafening sounds are heard far down 

 the crater, and masses of water are thrown out. After a 

 short period of quiet, as if gathering force for a new r 

 attempt, a fearful roaring, audible for miles, took place, and 

 the ground trembled as from an earthquake. Then a column 

 of water was ejected to the height before named. About 150 

 feet north of this powerful geyser is "Morning Glory," a 

 large and beautiful boiling spring. The water is transparent 

 and heavenly blue. The funnel-shaped channel, which leads 

 from the pool, brightly tinted with yellow and red, resem- 

 bles the flower this spring is named after. There are scores 

 of other springs, not so large as this, but possessing features 

 of wonderful attractiveness. As we left, Friday, the 26th, 

 the active little " Spiteful " gave us a parting salute. 



Having seen the wonderful sights of the Yellowstone Park, 

 we reloaded our heavy truck and, as the pasturage was poor, 

 drove out a few miles to a good camping spot. Next morn- 

 ing (Sept. 27) we started early, arranging with hunter Ryan 

 to accompany us, and left the Park by the road to Beaver 

 Canon, the western entrauce to the Park, and drove as far 

 as Riverside, a station of Bassett's stage fine, near the South 

 Fork of the Madison, and the next day we crossed the Madi- 

 son for the canon, where our guide expected to find sheep. 

 I killed some mallards on the way, and here also we saw our 

 first antelope, We camped right on the river. The follow 

 big day by noon we reached the Middle Canon of the South 

 Madison, "where right in the very heart of this wild, romantic 

 cation, close to the river, we pitched our tent. After lunch 

 we rode down the canon a few miles in search of the shy and 

 wary bighorns, and were so fortunate as to see a small band 

 of them close to the river, where they had come down from 

 the mountains to drink. Unnoticed, our dog had followed 

 us from camp, and having some trouble in sending him 

 back, the sheep must have been alarmed. Not daring to 

 get any closer to them, I crawled behind some willows and 

 brushes, through which 1 had to shoot, but without success, 

 as they soon gained the timbered foothills, running up the 

 mountains, as could be seen when they happened to cross an 

 opening in the timber, but too far to shoot. 



We hunted down the cafion without seeing any more 

 sheep, but noticed a great number of blue grouse. Having 

 no sholgun along, and not being expert enough to cut their 

 heads off with my rifle, I left them undisturbed and headed 

 for camp, which we reached by dark. Next day (Sept, 29) 

 we started early, as we were to hunt the sheep high up in 

 the mountains at their lofty homes. We crossed the Madi- 

 son, where the rapid current came near taking us along; but 

 the knowiug and well experienced horse brought me safely 

 to the other side. We picketed our horses near the timber 

 and began to climb the mountains, and after hours of ter- 

 rible work gained the summit. Here still we had to do some 

 neck-breaking gymnastics, sometimes jumping from rock to 

 rock or climbing on hands and feet over the sliding rock and 

 slate, unable to secure any sure footing. Our hard labor 

 was fruitless, no sheep to be seen; but the surrounding views, 

 sometimes obtained at the height of from 1,500 to 2,000 feet, 

 repaid us, and I returned to camp fatigued, but well pleased. 

 New York. F. B T. 



A Remonstkakce.— The Nuttall Ornithological Club of 

 Cambridge, has represented to the Legislative Committee on 

 Agriculture as follows. That our existing game laws 

 (chapter 92 of the Public Statutes, and chapter 297 of the 

 Acts of 1881) give protection to certain birds and their eggs, 

 as stated below, which protection would be withdrawn if a 

 bill offered as a substitute for the present law and now in 

 your hands, should be passed. We earnestly ask that in 

 drafting a bill for legislative actiou you recommend all 

 present protection be continued and re-enforced, and that 

 certain other species of birds as named below, not now pro- 

 tected, be given protection under the law. Tbe argument is 

 constantly brought forward that most of the species of birds 

 for which we ask a close season, do not breed in the State, 

 that they all pass north to raise their 3 r oung. We claim that 

 some of them do remain to breed; that others might do so if 

 not disturbed toward the end of the spring migrations, and 

 that many birds would return by the same route in the fall 

 flight, if not shot at so incessantly in the spring. The pin- 

 nated grouse, prairie chicken or heath hen, found naturally 

 on Martha's Vineyard only, is, under existing law, protected 

 the year round — see Public Statutes, chapter 92, section 1 — 

 and has been so protected for over thirty years. The suggested 

 law proposes an open season from Septal to Jan. 1, in each 

 year. We think it desirable to retain the present close pro- 

 tection. The so-called marsh, beach and shore birds, i. e., 

 the various species of plover, snipe, sandpiper and rail, are 

 protected (with the exception of five species) from April 1 to 

 July 15 (see Public Statutes, chapter 92, section 4). The 

 suggested law proposes to protect but one species, viz., the 

 Bartramian sandpiper or upland plover. Their protection at 

 least from May 15 to Aug. 1 we consider desirable. Herring- 

 gulls, or terns, generally known as sea swallows or mackerel 

 gulls, are now protected from May 1 to Aug. 1 (see Acts of 

 1881, chapter 297, section 3), as are also their eggs (see Public 

 Statutes, chapter 92, section 6). The suggested law would 

 remove all protection from these birds and their eggs. We 

 think they should have protection at least a portion of the 

 year, perhaps from May 15 to Aug. 1. if not to Sept. 1. The 

 existing law (see Public Statutes, chapter 92, section 6), as 

 also the proposed law, specially exempts wild geese and such 

 fresh water and sea fowl as are not protected in preceding 

 sectious, from any protection whatever. We think it ad- 

 visable to protect such fowl after May 15 to Aug. 1 in each 

 year. The request is signed by the officers of the club, viz. : 

 William Brewster, President; William A. Jeffries, Vice 

 President; H. A. Purdie, Recording; Secretary; J, A. Allen, 

 Corresponding Secretary ; Charles F. Batchelder, Treasurer; 

 and several of the members. 



