PLANT DEPARTMENT. 
1S" All orders, unless instructions are recewed to the contrary, are executed and forwarded upon receipt. 
Cus- 
tomers placing orders for stock to be reserved and sent later must distinctly sp2cify this at time of ordering. 
PLANTS BY MAIL.—Small plants will be sent free by 
mail when so desired. ‘The greater part or all of the soil is 
removed from the roots, which are carefully packed in damp 
moss. We cannot forward bulky plants, such as Azaleas, 
Camellias, large Roses, Shrubs and similar stock by mail. 
PLANTS BY EXPRESS.—We do not deliver plants 
free by express, the purchaser paying the charges, which are, 
by the principal express companies, 20 per cent. less than reg- 
ular merchandise rates. We strongly urge this method of trans- 
portation, as it enables us not only to give better values in the 
form of larger and finer plants, but we also always add liberal 
‘¢extras’’ to help defray charges, and unless instructed to 
the contrary, all orders are forwarded by express. 
PLANTS BY RAIL.—Shrubs, Hedge Plants and other 
dormant stock can be forwarded safely by fast freight lines, 
even to very distant points, at low rates. 
STEAMBOAT LINES,—Fast lines of boats connect Phil- 
adelphia with Baltimore, Boston, Fall River, Providence, Nor- 
folk, Richmond, Savannah, Troy and Albany. ‘This forms a 
convenient, cheap and safe method of transportation, except 
during severe cold weather. 
PACKING FREE.—We make absolutely no charge for 
boxes or packing, or delivery to any express, freight or steam- 
ship line in Philadelphia. 
SAFE ARRIVAL GUARANTEED.—We guarantee the 
safe arrival of all plants to any part in the U. S. or Canada 
when sent by express, If forwarded in any other man- 
ner they are entirely at the risk of the purchaser, 
FOREIGN SHIPMENTS.—We are constantly making 
shipments of Seeds, Plants, Bulbs, etc., to Europe, Cuba, the 
U. S. possessions in the far East, etc., and by our system of 
packing it is unusual for the goods to reach their destination in 
anything but the best condition. 
Miscellaneous Hints and Suggestions for the Amateur Florist. 
Written expressly for this book by Eben, E. Rexford. 
Soil for Pot Plants.—Ninety-nine out of every hundred 
plants that can be grown in the house will do well in any good 
soil that is not too heavy to allow water to run through it 
readily. A soil prepared after the following formula will answer 
the needs of the flower-grower excellently: One part ordinary 
loam. One part leafmold or turfy matter. Mix these together 
and add enough sharp sand to make the whole so friable that it 
will fall apart readily after squeezing it in the hand. 
(The ‘‘turfy matter’ advised as a substitute for leafmold is 
obtained by turning over sod and scraping away that portion of 
it which is full of grass-roots. This gives you a light, spongy 
soil, rich in vegetable matter, and almost as valuable as genuine 
leafmold from the woods. ) 
A sprinkling of bone meal can be added to give richness, if 
thought advisable. But I think it best to wait until a plant has 
made some growth before using much fertilizer. At no time 
should enough be used to produce a rapid growth, for rapidity, 
as a general thing, means weakness. A sturdy, healthy develop- 
ment is what should be aimed at, and the wise gardener will be 
content with it. 
Drainage.—Every pot more than three inches across ought 
to have something in the way of drainage before filling it with 
soil. If there is no outlet for water, the soil is soon soured by 
it. This results in diseased roots, and anything that interferes 
with healthy root-action will eventually destroy the plant unless 
the difficulty is promptly remedied. 
Watering. —In the article on Palms (see page 152) something 
has been said about watering. I can only say here that the ad- 
vice already given about watering when the surface of the soil 
looks dry, and then watering thoroughly, and waiting until the 
dry look comes again, is the nearest approach to a rule that can 
be offered. 
Plants in small pots dry out rapidly, and will require watering 
much oftener than those in large pots. In winter much less 
water is needed than in summer. Plants not making active 
growth will need but little water. Plants exposed to the sun will 
require a good deal more water sian those in shade. Hanging 
plants almost always suffer from lack of water because the soil in 
them parts rapidly with moisture on account of exposure on all 
sides to a temperature considerably higher than that at the win- 
dow-sill. 
Repotting.—I am not an advocate of frequent repotting. I 
prefer to supply my plants with food in the shape of fertilizers 
rather than forcing them to depend upon the soil itself for 
nourishment. My experience with root-bound plants which 
have been kept growing healthily by the application of fertilizers 
convinces me that a great deal of hard work can be saved by 
paying less attention to repotting than we have been in the habit 
of doing. 
Young plants will require shifting to pots of larger size as 
their root system develops. To not repot such a plant would be 
to check its growth at a time when the development of a vigor- 
ous root-system is a matter of great importance. 
In repotting any plant, large or small, disturb the roots as 
little as possible. Slip it out of its old pot, put it into the new 
one, and fill in about it with fresh soil. Water well after you 
have the plant in its new pot to settle the soil you have added. 
Fertilizers.—There are many good kinds on the market. I 
cannot mention any particular kind here, with the exception of 
bonemeal, which has already been spoken of. This I consider 
a thoroughly reliable plant food. 
But let me say right here, use whatever fertilizer you make 
choice of with great caution. Be governed by the instructions 
which accompany it. Don’t think that because a little is good 
a great deal must be better. It is an easy matter to kill your 
plants by being too kind to them, © 
Never use any fertilizer on a plant that is standing still. 
Wait until it begins to grow, and then weak applications, in- 
creasing the amount as the plant develops. So long as plants 
grow well, be content to let well enough alone. 
Imsects.—The insect most frequently met with among house- 
plants is the aphis or green plant-louse. The preparation on 
the market under the name of Nikoteen is the best weapon I 
know of to fight this enemy. Prepare and use it as directed on 
the bottle in which it comes. Keep a supply of it on hand, and 
make use of it whenever you discover an aphis. Do this promptly, 
and it is an easy matter to prevent the insect from spreading all 
over your plants, but wait a few days and you will find that the 
pest has increased a thousandfold. ‘A stitch in time saves nine.”’ 
For scale and mealy-bug I advise the emulsion spoken of in 
the article on Palm-culture (see page 152). 
If the leaves of your plants turn yellow and drop without. any 
apparent reason for it, you are safe in suspecting that the red 
spider is the cause of the trouble. Turn up a Jeaf and examine 
it carefully, If you find tiny webs on it you may be sure your 
suspicions were well founded. 
Nothing troubles the red spider but moisture. Showering— 
not sprinkling—with clear water will rout him if persisted in. 
Lay the infested plant down on its side and turn on the hose. 
Do this several times a week until the plant shows no more yel- 
low leaves, and not a web is to be seen. Keep water constantly 
evaporating on stove and register in winter. Do any and every- 
thing that will help to keep the atmosphere of the room moist, 
but depend upon showering as a general treatment. 
Airing Your Plants.—Give the plants in your window 
fresh air on every pleasant day. Open a door or window at 
some distance from them and let the cold air from out of doors 
mix with the warm air of the room before it reaches them. This 
is very necessary, especially in winter, when our rooms are sure 
to be overheated, and the air in them is depleted of its life-giving 
qualities. 
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