VIEW OF ONE OF OUR PoNnps AT RIVERTON SHOWING VicTorIAS AND TENDER Nympr-ras. 
water is inhabited and beautified by aquatic plants and fish, it becomes fascinating. More especially is this the case when the 
| LL water, whether it be a lake, stream, pond or even a small pool, seems to hold a certain charm for everyone, and, when thig 
plants are gorgeous tender Nympheeas and Nelumbiums, or the chaste and artistic hardy Water Lilies, and when we consider 
the ease with which these plants can be grown, there is no reason why every natural lake, pond and stream having the proper con; 
ditions, which are sunshine, still, warm water, and plenty of rich soil, should not beso beautified. Where stagnant pools exist, if 
becomes a hygienic necessity to stock same with plants and fish, for, as in the house aquarium, when properly balanced with plant ang 
animal life, the water becomes, and will remain, pure and sweet, and in place of a mosquito and malaria-breeding pool we have 4 
healthful and delightful aquatic garden. 
Aquatics given the same or similar conditions as those under which our native Water Lilieg 
are found will grow luxuriantly and flower profusely the entire season, and will give more pleasure for the time and care expended in 
their cultivation than any other plants of which we know. 
The amount of flowers produced and space covered by a single specimey 
Nympheea, even the rarer and more expensive varieties, become inexpensive, compared to the cost of the most ordinary bedding plants, 
HOW TO GROW WATER LILIES. 
Soil and Location, The best soil for growing all aquatics 
is the rotted vegetable matter from ponds or swamps, mixed with 
one-third well-rotted manure, and the best substitute for same is 
good, heavy loam enriched with one-third well-decayed cow 
manure. All Nympheeas and other flowering aquatics should be 
planted so that they will be exposed to full sunlight. 
Size and Construction of Ponds, etc, In constructing 
artificial ponds where the soil is not sufficiently retentive to hold 
water a good method is to smooth and pound firmly the bottom 
and sides of the excavation, then cover the whole with a layer of 
six inches of puddled clay, pounding it well with wooden mauls 
so as to bring it into one solid mass. Cover the sides with rough 
stones or put on a thin layer of concrete. This will prevent the 
sides from washing. When ponds are built of cement or concrete 
below the level of the ground, the top of wall should be built in 
a wedge shape and plastered smooth with cement, both inside 
and out. This will prevent, to a great extent, the frost heaving 
it during the winter months. A total depth of two feet is suf- 
ficient; one foot for soil and one foot for water, with an overflow 
so constructed that the pond can be entirely drained or the water 
held at any level desired. In constructing ponds, except when 
In connection with formal gardens and buildings, they should be 
of as natural an outline as possible, with here and there.a clump 
of marsh-loving plants—a piece or two of rough rock-work, 
planted with rock plants—a clump of hardy Bamboo ; hardy 
ornamental grasses; hardy herbaceous plants and specimen 
flowering shrubs, but always leaving open spaces from where the 
loveliest of all, the Water Lilies, can be seen and admired. 
For those who have not the advantage of natural ponds or 
large artificial basins, there are many varieties which can be 
grown successfully in half-barrels or any water-tight receptacle 
having a diameter of two feet or more, but the greater the sur- 
face space the better will be the results. 
Many of the Nymphzeas and other aquatics, and all of the 
‘Nelumbiums, can be successfully grown in half-barrels. To do 
this, fill the tubs half-full with aquatic soil, top-dressed with two 
inches of sand, allowing about six inches for water. Sink the 
tubs in the ground to within three inches of the top | When more 
than one tub is used a very ornamental effect can be produced by 
leaving a space between the tubs to be used as a miniature rock 
garden. 
This article is continued on next page. 
Written by our 
Own expert, 
The following varieties will be found suitable for tub culture; 
Nympheeas, Aurora, Lucida, Marliacea chromatella, Odorata 
minor, Pygmeea, Pygmeea helvola, Zanzibariensis azureaand rosea, 
Acorus japonicus variegatus, Eichhornia crassipes major, Jussiag 
longifolia, Limnanthemum indicum, Limnocharis Humboldti, 
Sagittaria Montevidiensis, Scirpus taberneemontana zebrina, 
Depth and Supply of Water. This may vary from a few 
inches to four feet, but all of the hardy Nymphzas will giv¢ 
better results if only covered by 12 inches of water during the 
summer months. For growing in water two feet or more deep, 
only the strong-growing varieties of Nymphzeas should be chosen, 
Tender Nymphzeas and Nelumbiums should not have more thay % 
twelve inches of water above the crowns, j 
As all Water Lilies, and more especially the tender varieties, 
prefer still, warm water, it is a mistake to have any fountain or 
other continuous inflow of water in connection with artificial] 
ponds or tanks, and in natural ponds, when such are fed with 4 
, large inflow of cold spring water, Lilies will not be a success, 
For artificial ponds and tanks it is best only to give enough ‘resk 
water to replace what is lost by evaporation, etc., and the best 
method of doing so is to give the ponds a good syringing from g 
hose late in the afternoon or early in the evening. The syringing, 
besides giving the necessary amount of fresh water, will be very 
beneficial to the plants, as it will keep in check green and black 
fly and keep the leaves free from dust. 
Hardy Nymphzas can be planted at any time from April tg 
September. The best results, however, will be obtained if the 
planting is done just as they start into growth, which in the 
vicinity of Philadelphia is about May Ist. 
Tender Nymphzeas will grow and luxuriate under the same 
conditions as the hardy Nymphezas, but the more sheltered and 
warmer the location the better will be the results. When arti 
ficial heat can be introduced into the pond in early summer, the 
results will more than repay for the extra care and trouble. 
Tender Nymphezas should not be planted until after the weather 
has become warm and settled, or at about the same time that such 
tender plants as Coleus, etc., are planted in the border. Foy . 
those who have greenhouse accommo tion it will be better.tg 
purchase dormant bulbs, which should be started into growth Fy 
about April Ist by being potted into six-inch pots, placed iy | 
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