PartTiat Vigsw oF Rosg TrIAL Beps aT Our Nurssry, Riverton, N, J. 
While our old customers are familiar with the grade of Roses which we send out, we wish to direct the attention of those who 
have never planted our stock to the manner in which these plants are prepared. The bulk of our Roses are field grown plants, 
having been cultivated in fields during the growing season of 1919. In fall they were carefully dug, planted in pots and stored 
in cold greenhouses or cold frames, where artificial heat is only used to exclude severe frost. Under this treatment the plants de- 
velop in the most natural way, and are much superior to stock which has been forced in a high temperature into an unnatural and 
weakened growth. Our Roses are all strong two-year-old American-grown. With few exceptions our Roses are budded or 
grafted, and while some planters prefer stock grown on their own roots on account of the liability of budded plants to throw up 
suckers, this will rarely occur if the deep planting as directed below is followed, and if a wild shoot should appear it is readily 
distinguished by the most casual observer, and should be removed close to the root. Much can be said in favor of budded plants, 
being more vigorous, producing finer blooms, come into bearing sooner, and are equally as permanent and hardy as those on their 
own roots, and many of the choicest sorts do not succeed unless budded or grafted. 
HOW TO GROW ROSES 
SITUATION.—Good Roses may be grown in any open, 
sunny position, if possible sheltered from north winds, and clear 
of all roots of trees and shrubs. 
PREPARATION OF THE BEDS.—Roses will grow and 
give good returns in any fertile, well-drained ground; but it is 
worth while to use some care in the preparation of the beds, as 
the general health of the plants, quantity and quality of bloom 
usually more than repays the extra care expended on this detail, 
The best soil for Roses is the top soil from an old pasture and 
well-rotted cow manure. Dig out the bed to a depth of two 
feet or more, and, if drainage is imperfect, it must be provided 
for. Fill in with a mixture of soil and manure as above. It is 
best to make the beds sometime in advance of planting, to allow 
time for settling. After the soil is settled, it should be about an 
inch below the level of the adjacent surface; make the beds not 
over 34 to 5 feet wide, which enables you to pick the blooms 
without stepping on the bed. 
PLANTING AND SUMMER CARE.—The ideal time 
to plant Roses as prepared by us is in the spring, just after dan- 
ger from severe frost is passed. 
Tca and Hybrid-Tea varieties can be set 18 inches apart, 
Hybrid Perpetuals two feet apart, and both eight inches from 
the edge of the beds. When the plants are supplied in pots, 
they should be set so that the ball of earth is about two and one- 
half inches below the level of the ground. Firm the soil well 
around the plants, and give a thorough watering ifthe soil is dry. 
Throughout the summer the surface of the soil should be culti- 
vated weekly. If this is done, watering will be rarely necessary. 
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PRUNING.—The Roses sent out by us in spring require no 
further pruning; they are ready to plant as received. For in- 
structions how to prune during succeeding seasons, see the di- 
rections given under the headings of the different classes in the 
pages following. 
WINTER PROTECTION.—Inthis latitude we have found 
that the most satisfactory protection is to draw up a mound of 
soil from 8 to 10 inches high around the base of the plant, then 
covering the entire beds after the ground begins to freeze with 
any loose material, such as strawy manure, evergreen boughs or 
corn stalks, and in more severe climates heavier covering is all 
that is required. 
ENEMIES.—When grown under favorable conditions, Roses 
are not apt to be attacked by insect pests or other troubles as 
they are if half starved and otherwise neglected. Our own ex- 
perience shows that a weekly application of Bordeaux Arsenate 
of Lead Mixture, at the rate of eight ounces to five gallons of 
water, applied with a whisk broom, or any sprayer that will 
reach the under side of the foliage, beginning at the time that 
the plants have developed into active growth, and continued 
throughout the season, will keep them free of almost all insect 
pests, as well as fungous diseases, but if in spite of this spraying, 
mildew should affect the foliage, use Sulphide of Potassium at 
the rate of one-half ounce te one gallon of water. This is some- 
times effective where the Bordeaux Mixture fails. It may be 
necessary to supplement this treatment with several applications 
of any tobacco solution, or tobacco dust, for green fly or aphis, 
which may appear during the growing season. 
