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ParTIAL View OF Rose TrIAL Beps aT our Nursery, Riverton, N. J. 
While our old customers are familiar with the grade of Roses which we send out, we wish to direct the attention of those who 
have never planted our stock to the manner in which these plants are prepared. The bulk of our Roses are field-grown plants, 
having been cultivated in fields during the growing season of 1916. In fall they were carefully dug, planted in pots and stored 
in cold greenhouses or cold frames, where artificial heat is only used to exclude severe frost. Under this treatment the plants de- 
velop in the most natural way, and are much superior to stock which has been forced in a high temperature into an unnatural and 
weakened growth, and to the comparatively worthless Roses which are sold so cheaply in a dormant condition. Our Roses, with 
few exceptions, are either home-grown or grown for us in Europe by specialists who have made a life-study of the Rose, a very 
large percentage of the Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals having been received from the famous nurseries of Messrs. Dickson & 
Sons, Belfast, Ireland. With few exceptions, our Roses are budded or grafted, and while some planters prefer stock grown on 
their own roots on account of the liability of budded plants to throw up suckers, this will rarely occur if the deep planting as 
directed below is followed, and if a wild shoot should appear it is readily distinguished by the most casual observer, and should be 
removed close to the root. 
Much can be said in favor of budded plants, being more vigorous, producing finer blooms, come into 
bearing sooner, and are equally as permanent and hardy as those on their own roots, and many of the choicest sorts do not succeed 
unless budded or grafted, 
HOW TO GROW ROSES. 
SITUATION.—Good Roses may be grown in any open, sunny 
position, if possible sheltered from north winds, and clear of all 
roots of trees and shrubs. 
PREPARATION OF THE BEDS.—Roses will grow and 
give good returns in any fertile, well-drained ground; but it is 
worth while to use some care in the preparation of the beds, as 
the general health of the plants, quantity and quality of bloom 
usually more than repays the extra care expended cn this detail. 
The best soil for Roses is the top soil from an old pasture and 
Dig out the bed to a depth of two 
feet or more, and, if drainage is imperfect, it must be provided 
for. It is 
best to make the beds some time in advance of planting, to allow 
After the soil is settled, it should be about an 
~ inch below the level of the adjacent surface; make the beds not 
over 34 to 5 feet wide, which enables you to pick the blooms 
without stepping on the bed. 
PLANTING AND SUMIIER CARE.—The ideal time 
to plant Roses as prepared by us is in the spring, just after dan- 
ger from severe frost is past. 
Tea and Hybrid-Tea varieties can be set 18 inches apart, 
Hybrid Perpetuals two feet apart, and both eight inches from 
the edgeof the beds. When the plants are supplied in pots, they 
well-rotted cow manure. 
Fill in with a mixture of soil and manure as above. 
time for settling. 
should be set so that the ball of earth is about two and one-half 
inches below the level of the ground. Firm the soil well around 
the plants, and give a thorough watering if the soil is dry. 
Throughout the summer the surface of the soil should be culti- 
vated weekly, 
(170) 
If this is done, watering will be rarely necessary. 
PRUNING.—The Roses sent out by us in Spring require no 
further pruning; they are ready to plant as received. For in- 
structions how to prune during succeeding seasons, see the direc- 
tions given under the headings of the different classes in the 
pages following. 
WINTER PROTECTION. —In this latitude we have found 
that the most satisfactory protection is to draw up a mound of 
soil from 8 to 10 inches high around the base of the plants, then 
covering the entire beds after the ground begins to freeze with 
any loose material, such as strawy manure, evergreen boughs, or 
corn stalks, and in more severe climates heavier covering is all 
that is required. 
ENEMIES.—When grown under favorable conditions, Roses * 
are not so apt to be attacked by insect pests or other troubles as 
they are if half starved and otherwise neglected. Our own ex- 
perience shows that a weekly application of Bordeaux Arsenate 
of Lead Mixture, at the rate of eight ounces to five gallons of 
water, applied with a whisk broom, or any sprayer that will 
reach the under side of the foliage, beginning at the time that 
the plants have developed into active growth, and continued 
throughout the season, will keep them free of almost all insect 
pests, as well as fungous diseases, but if in spite of this spraying, 
mildew should affect the foliage, use Sulphide of Potassium at 
the rate of one-half ounce to one gallon of water. This is some- 
times effective where the Bordeaux Mixture fails. It may be 
necessary to supplement this treatment with several applications 
of any tobacco solution, or tobacco dust, for green-fly or aphis, 
which may appear during the growing season. 
