pew to interest and delight even the most critical. 
lardias, Gentians, Tritomas, etc. 
ing their cultivation and the best method of arranging them in 
the garden, but no hard or fast lines can be laid down, as it 
largely depends on location, the ground at the disposal, and 
the individual taste of the cultivator. In arranging hardy 
flowers one should never forget the ways of Nature, choosing 
the flowers she uses in the positions she thinks most suitable, 
while endeavoring to conceal stiffness of arrangement by a care- 
ful study of her plans and the judicious use of the beautiful 
hardy plants at our disposal. 
Situation.—There is no class of plants which lend them- 
lselves to such varied assortment of climatic or soil conditions, 
\but the most effective position for Hardy Perennial plants in 
general is a good open border, backed by a hedge, a fence or 
J) trellis covered with Rambling Roses or any other hardy climb- 
jing vines ; while some of the taller-growing sorts, such as Hol- 
lyhocks, Sunflowers, Rudbeckias, Boltonias, Bocconias, etc., 
are also very attractive when planted throughout a shrubbery 
border, their showy flowers forming a bright contrast with the 
|foliage of the shrubs throughout the summer and fall when few 
| of the latter are in bloom. 
Soil and Planting.—Cultivation is of the simplest, begin- 
ning with any good garden soil as a foundation, which may be 
enriched with such fertilizers as well-decomposed manure, bone- 
meal, or sheep manure deeply dug and well-pulverized. The 
best time to plant hardy plants is just when they are emerging 
into life after their season’s rest, when the weather is favorable 
and the soil in condition, or they may be set out in the autumn. 
Above all things avoid wet planting. Do not make the common 
| mistake of overcrowding; give each plant sufficient room to 
allow it to develop to its full size. The nearest approach toa 
rule which may be followed in planting being to set out plants 
which grow to a height of 2 feet or less 12 inches apart, and all 
others space equal to one-half their height when developed. For 
example, Aquilegias and Gypsophila, which grow 2 feet high, 
may be planted 12 inches apart, while Delphinium formosum 
and Japanese Iris, which grow 8 feet high, should be 18 inches | 
apart. Care should also be taken to blend the colors through- 
out the garden, so as to prevent too many of one shade of color 
A View 1n Our Nursery, wHERE We Grow Harpy PERENNIAL PLANTS BY THE ACRE 
F all the plants that are cultivated for purely ornamental purposes, there are none which have made such rapid strides in 
public favor as the Old-fashioned Hardy Garden Flowers, the inhabitants of the perennial garden. Their popu- 
- larity is “not at all surprising when we consider the many varied and pleasant changes which take place throughout the 
entire growing season in a well-arranged hardy garden, in which every week—yes, every day—brings forth something fresh and 
1 1 r Beginning in April, the early-flowering varieties open their flowers often before 
he snow has entirely disappeared, and continue, with constant changing variety, throughout the summer until late in the fall, when 
nly severe freezing weather will stop such persistent late-blooming kinds as Japanese Anemones, Pompon Chrysanthemums, Gail- 
THE MAKING AND CARE OF AN OLD-FASHIONED HARDY BORDER. 
Frequent are the discussions and many are the ideas concern- | 
coming together. causing jarring contrasts. The season of 
flowering of the different types should also be taken into account, 
and the different plants as evenly dispersed as possible, in order 
to maintain an equality of flowering plants, leaving no portion 
of the garden bire or flowerless, nor crowding together too many 
that bloom at the same time. 
Care in Summer.—During the growing season careful at- 
tention should be given if best results are to be obtained. There 
is nothing so beneficial as frequent stirring up around the plants, 
and raking the ground into order again; it allows the air to 
move more freely through the surface of the soil, thereby en- 
couraging growth and keeping the weeds in check. During hot, 
dry weather, or when it is not convenient to water, a mulch of 
any loose, light material will be found very beneficial in retaining 
the moisture and in keeping the soil from baking; short grass, 
the rakings of the lawn after cutting, is excellent material for 
this purpose. Early in summer many varieties will have made 
considerable growth, and the supporting of these should be taken 
up intime. It is hardly possible to stake and tie up a plant so 
that it will have the same graceful appearance as if grown natu- 
rally without their aid; still, supports should be inserted at ali 
tall-growing sorts early in the season while the plants are small. 
In this way they will lend themselves more naturally to their 
support than if this work is accomplished after the plants have 
made considerable growth. Once the plants get broken down 
or allowed to get ‘‘set’’ it is impossible to tie them up into 
natural shape again. This phase of summer work in the garden 
is often considered a matter of small importance, yet the difference 
between doing same in a slipshod and a workmanlike manner is 
most apparent; and, while fully sympathizing with those who 
may not be able to spare the time or who may not have the 
materials at hand necessary to perform this work in the best pos- 
sible manner, it cannot be too strongly emphasized that these are 
two of the most important factors in the successful cultivation of 
all-out-of-door plants. The removal of old flower stems wil! also 
materially help the appearance of the plants at all times, many 
species responding to this treatment with an extra crop of 
flowers later in the season. All decayed foliage should also be 
removed, so as to keep the garden neat and tidy at all seasons, 
The making and care of an Old-fashioned Hardy Border continued on next page. | 
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