PLANT DEPARTMENT. 



1^" All oi'ders, unless instructions are received to the contrary, are executed and forwarded upon receipt, 

 tomers placing orders for stock to be reserved and sent later must distinctly specify this at tine of ordering. 



C US- 



PLANTS BY MAIL. — Small plants will be sent free by 

 mail when so desired. The greater part or all of the soil is 

 removed from the roots, which are carefully packed in damp 

 moss. We cannot forward bulky plants, such as Azaleas, 

 Camellias, large Roses, Shrubs and similar stock by mail. 



PLANTS BY EXPRESS.— We do not deliver plants free 

 by express, the purchaser paying the charges, which are, by the 

 principal express companies, 20 per cent, less than regular 

 merchandise rates. We strongly urge this method of trans- 

 portation, as it enables us not onjy to give better values in the 

 form of larger and finer plants, but we also always add liberal 

 "extras" to help defray charges, and unless instructed tO 

 the contrary, all orders are forwarded by express. 



■ PLANTS BY RAIL.— Shrubs, Hedge Plants (and other 

 dormant stock can be forwarded safely by fast freight lines, 

 even to very distant points, at low rates. 



STEAMBOAT LINES.— Fast lines of boats connect Phil 

 adelphia with Baltimore, Boston, p'all River, Providence, Nor- 

 folk, Richmond, Savannah, Troy and Albany Th's forms a 

 convenient, cheap and safe method of transportation, except 

 during severe cold weather. 



PACKING FREE. — We make absolutely no charge for 

 boxes or packing, or delivery to any express, freight or steam- 

 ship line in Philadelphia. 



SAFE ARRIVAL GUARANTEED.— We guarantee the 

 safe arrival of all plants to any part in the U. S. or Canada 

 when sent by express. If forwarded in any other nian= 

 ner they are entirely at the risk of the purchaser. 



FOREIGN SHIPMENTS.— We are constantly making 

 shipments of Seeds, Plants, Bulbs, etc., to Europe, Cuba, the 

 U. S. possessions in the East, etc., and by our system of 

 packing it is unusual for the goods to reach their destination in 

 anything but the best condition. 



Miscellaneous Hints and Suggestions for tlie Amateur Florist. 



Written expressly for this book by Eben. E. Rexford. 



Soil for Pot Plants. — Ninety-nine out of every hundred 

 plants that can be grown in the house will do well in any good 

 soil that is not too heavy to allow water to run through it 

 readily. A soil prepared after the following formula will answer 

 the needs of the flower-grower excellently: One part ordinary 

 loam; one part leafmold or turfy matter. Mix these together 

 and add enough sharp sand to make the whole so friable that it 

 will fall apart re.\dily after squeezing it in the hand. 



(The "turfy malter" advised as a substitute for leafmold is 

 obtained by turning over sod and scraping away that portion of 

 it which is full of grass-roots. This gives you a light, spongy 

 soil, rich in vegetable matter, and almost as valuable as genuine 

 leafmold rom the woods. ) 



A sprinkling of boneraeal c;in be added to give richness, if 

 thought advisable. But I think it best to wait until a plant has 

 made some growth before using much fertilizer. At no time 

 should enough be used to produce a rapid growth, for rapidity, 

 as a general thing, means weakness. A sturdy, healthy devel- 

 opment is what should be aimed at, and the wise gardener will 

 be content with it. 



Drainage. — Every pot more than three inches across ought 

 to have something in the way of drainage before filling it with 

 soil. If there is no outlet for water, the soil is soon soured by 

 it. This results in diseased rt)ots, and anything that interferes 

 with healthy root-action will eventually destroy the plant unless 

 the difficulty is promptly remedied. 



Watering. — We are often asked to give a rule for watering 

 plants. There can be no hard-and-fast rule because conditions 

 differ so widely; but it is always safe to wait until the surface of 

 the soil has a dry appearance. Then apply enough water to 

 thoroughly saturate all the soil in the pot, after which wait until 

 the surface takes on a dry look again before applying more. 



Plants in small pots dry out rapidly, and will require watering 

 much oftener than those in large pots. In winter much less 

 water is needed than in summer. Plants not making active 

 growth will need but little water. Plants exposed to the sun 

 will require a good deal more water than those in the shade. 



Repotting. — I am not an advocate of frequent repotting. I 

 prefer to supply my jslants with food in the shape of fertilizers 

 rather than forcing them to depend upon the soil itself for 

 Qourishment. My experience with root-bound plants which 

 have been kept growing healthily by the application of fertilizers 

 convinces me that a great deal of hard work can be saved by 

 paying less attention to repotting than we have been in the habit 

 of doing. 



Young plants will require shifting to pots of larger size as 

 ibeir root system develops. To not repot such a plant would be 



to check its growth at a time when the development of a vigor 

 ous root-system is a matter of great importance. 



In repotting any plant, large or small, disturb the roots as 

 little as possible. Slip it out of its old pot, put it into the new 

 one and fill in about it with fresh soil. Water well after you 

 have the plant in its new pot to settle the soil you have added. 



Fertilizers. — There are many good kinds on the market. 1 

 cannot mention any particular kind here, with the exception ol 

 bonemeal, which has already been spoken of. This I consider 

 a thoroughly reliable plant food. 



But let me say right here, use whatever fertilizer you make 

 choice of with great caution. Be governed by the instructions 

 which accompany it. Don't think that because a little is good 

 a great deal must be better. It is an easy matter to kill youi 

 plants by being too kind to them. 



Never use any fertilizer on a plant that is standing still. Wail 

 until it begins to grow, and then weak applications, increasing 

 the amount as the jilant develops. So long as plants grow well, 

 be content to let well enough alone. 



Insects. — The insect most frequently met with among house 

 plants is the aphis or green plant-louse. The preparation on 

 the market under the name of Nikoteen is the best weapon 1 

 know of to fight this enemy. Prepare and use it as directed on 

 the bottle in which it comes. Keep a supply of it on hand, and 

 make use of it whenever you discover an aphis. Do this promptly, 

 and it is an ea.sy matter to prevent the insects from spreading all 

 over your plants; but wait a few days and you will find that the 

 pest has increased a thousandfold. "A stitch in time saves nine." 



If the leaves of your plants turn yellow and drop without any 

 apparent reason for it, you are safe in suspecting that the red 

 spider is the cause of the trouble. Turn up a leaf and examine 

 it carefully. If you find tiny webs on it you may be sure you? 

 suspicions were well founded. 



Nothing troubles the red spider but moisture. Showering — 

 not sprinkling — with clear water will rout him if persisted in. 

 Lay the infested plant down on its side and turn on the hose. 

 Do this several times a week until the plant shows no more yel- 

 low leaves and not a web is to be seen. Keep water constantly 

 evaporating on stove and register in winter. Do any and every- 

 thing that will help to keep the atmosphere of the room moist, 

 but depend upon showering as a general treatment. 



Airing Your Plants. — Give the plants in your window- 

 fresh air on every pleasant day. Open a door or window at 

 some distance from them, and let the cold air from out of doors 

 mix with the warm air of the room before it reaches them. This 

 is very necessary, especially in winter, when our rooms are sure 

 to be overheated, and the air in them is depleted of its life-giving 

 qualities. 



(127) 



