Succe55fiil S^^d So'^ifi^- 



Provided the soil is in a proper state, flower seeds may 

 be sown in the open border in the months of April and 

 May. The seeds should be sown as soon as the soil be- 

 comes dry and easily crumbled, after the spring frosts 

 have disappeared. Care should be taken not to sow in a 

 crowded border, as light and air are indispensable. They 

 maj^ also be sown iu prepared beds of light, rich soil, and 

 transplanted into the garden. The former is the more 

 simple method, but not always as satisfactory. The better 

 is to sow all fine seeds under glass in a greenhouse, hot- 

 bed, or in the house. As to the depth to which seeds 

 should be covered, the best general rule is to cover fine 

 seeds very lightly, just enough to protect them from the 

 sun ; and in extremely dry weather a sprinkling of damp 

 moss is very useful. With very fine seeds it is best to sow 

 on the surface, and press them slightly into the soil. "We 

 are convinced that one of the most frequent causes of 

 failure is in sowing the seeds too deep, and seedsmen are 

 un|ustly censured, when the fault lies with the cultivator. 



The period of sowing has also much to do with success 

 or failure ; as a rule, we find the winter months, even 

 with all the appliances a skilful gardener can give, the 

 most unsatisfactory; many instances of which have come 

 under our observation during our long experience. 



For sowing seeds, shallow boxes 2 to 3 inches deep, and 

 covered with a light of glass and with open seams at the bot- 

 tom, so that the water can drain through quickly, are best. 

 (These we keep in stock all ready for use.) The best soil 

 is a mixture of equal parts of sand, leaf-mould, and light, 

 rich garden loam, which should be thoroughly mixed and 



Eassed through a coarse sieve ; then fill your pots, pans, or 

 oxes within half an inch of the rim ; press the soil firmly 

 and evenly. If the soil is dry it is best to water freely a 

 day or two before sowing the seed, to enable the surplus 

 water to drain off. After they are sown cover slightly 

 with fine soil, carefully water with a fine rose or spray 

 dampener, to settle the soil. When they are designed to 

 be grown in the house, the temperature should be as near 

 60 degrees as possible ; place them in a light window fac- 

 ing south or east. 



The importance of uniform attention to watering may be 

 best learned by experience and observation, but the inex- 

 perienced cultivator may be reminded that to omit a sin- 

 gle watering and allow the young plant-germs from seed 

 to remain in a parched state, or a too frequent indiscrimi- 

 nate watering, usually leads to the eventual loss of the 

 whole. As soon as the plants appear, they will require 

 careful attention, as the least over-watering may cause 

 them to "damp off," and suddenly destroy all your hopes. 

 They should now have as much sun as possibl*, and when 

 the weather is ])leasant, some air may be admitted. As 

 soon as the plants are large enough to handle, prick them 

 into other boxes or pots, placing them about 1 inch apart 

 each way ; they mustr be shaded for a few days from the 

 sun, until they are established. When large enough they 

 can be potted in small pots, and kept until the proper sea- 

 son for planting in the garden. 



Nature bountifully provides for the reproduction of 

 plants; the difficulty of multiplying by one method is 

 counteracted by the ease with which it may be done by 

 another. When plants are difficult to grow from cuttings, 

 we generally find that they seed freely, thus giving ample 

 means for increase. For instance, the much a<lmired Cen- 

 taureas, so extensively used for edgings, massing or bas- 

 kets, which are difficult to grow from cuttings, are readily 

 raised from seed ; there are numerous varieties having the 

 same nature, which all Florists and Amateurs soon dis- 

 cover by experience. 



The germination of many hard seeds, especially among 

 greenhouse or hot-house species, which are almost imper- 

 vious to moisture, is greatly accelerated by pouring warm 

 water over them, or soaking them over night in camphor- 

 ated water, and then sowing. Thus treated, the young 

 plants appear in a few weeks; but without such treatment 

 they often lie dormant many months. The varieties of 

 Acacia, Erythrina, Canna and Smilax are the most j)rom- 

 inent of this class. 



Climbers, for garden decorations, should be sown in 

 February and March, the earlier the better, as the display 

 in season will be in proportion to their early vigor. 



Calceolaria and Primula are tyjies of a class that 

 require entirely difterent treatment; to insure success they 

 should be sown in pots or boxes half filled with rough 

 sittings; on this put two inches of fine compost, and sift 

 over this a top-dressing of the .same material, using a fine 

 sieve. Sow the seed on the surface and press gently in, 

 using a flat surface. Sprinkle with a fine rose ; coverwitl., 

 a pane of glass, and keep shaded from the sun. The sur 

 face should be kept damp, and the pots or boxes kept in a 

 moist, warm temperature. As soon as the seedlings are 

 strong enough they must be potted in small pots, in soil 

 prepared as before, and kept in the same situation until 

 well established. 



ANNUALS. 



Annuals are plants that arrive at perfection, bloom, produce seed, and die the first season. Hardy Annuals 

 can be sown in the borders from April to June. Half-Hardy and Tender Annuals can be sown in March and 

 April in shallow boxes, etc., and placed on a hot-bed ; when the plants are large enough, transplant in a cool frame 

 near the glass to harden. In May, when the weather has become favorable, transplant in the borders; the seed may 

 be sown in the ojien ground in May and June. 



Many annual': are verj' desirable for the greenhouse for winter-blooming, and must be sown in July or August. Of 

 these the most important are Browallia, Candytuft, German Stocks, Lobelia, Mignonette, Schizanthus, Sweet Alyssum, 

 and Dwarf Nasturtiums. Many varieties, as well as the above, may be sown in the fall and winter for blooming early 

 in the spring, such as Acroclinium, Ageratum, Antirrhinum, Geranium, Dianthus, Linum, Mimulus, Myosotis, Pansy, 

 Petunias. Phlox Drummondi, Salpiglossis, Salvia, Verbena, Vinca, and others which will be found in our full and 

 complete list of the best leading varieties. 



BIENNIALS. 



Biennials are those that last two seasons; some of the varieties bloom the first year, and remain overwinter, 

 flowering again the second year and then die ; a slight protection of leaves or coarse manure will be found beneficial. 



For snmmer and autumn'flowering the seed should be sown in March and April, and treated the same as half-hardy 

 annuals. Hardy kinds can be sown from April to September in the open border, and transplanted where they are 

 intended to bloom the following vear. 



PERENNIALS. 



Perennials do not flower until the second year, and the hardy varieties remain in the ground from year to year, 

 and improve by age, forming large clumps or bushes, which are completely covered with their attractive flowers. 

 They should be planted in the borders or beds where they are intended to remain permanently. 



The seed may be sown early in the spring with Annuals, or later iu the summer iu a cool aud partially shaded situa- 

 tion, and when large enough transplant to where they are to remain. nvn- 



The following are among the most desirable: Campanula, Foxglove, Hollyhock, Larkspur. Pinks, Sweet William, 

 Wallflower, etc. 

 (6) 



