Successful Seed Sowine. 
Provided the soil is in a proper state, flower seeds may | The importance of uniform attention to watering may be 
be sown in the open border in the months of April and | best learned by experience and observation, but the inex, 
May. The seeds should be sown as soon as the soil be- | perienced cultivator may be reminded that to omit a sin- 
comes dry and easily crumbled, after the spring frosts | gle watering and allow the young plant-germs from seed 
have disappeared. Care should be taken not to sow in a|to remain in a parched state, or a too frequent indiscrimi- 
erowded border, as light and air are indispensable. They | nate watering, usually leads to the eventual loss of the 
may also be sown in prepared beds of light, rich soil, and | whole. As soon as the plants appear, they will require 
transplanted into the garden. The former is the more | careful attention, as the least over-watering may cause 
simple method, but not always as satisfactory. The better | them to “damp off,” and suddenly destroy all your hopes. 
is to sow all fine seeds under glass in-a greenhouse, hot- | They should now have as much sun as possible, and when 
bed, or in the house. As to the depth to which seeds | the weather is pleasant, some air may be admitted. As 
should be eovered, the best general rule is to cover fine | soon as the plants are large enough to handle, prick them 
seeds very lightly, just enough to protect them from the | into other boxes or pots, placing them about 1 inch apart 
sun; and in extremely dry weather a sprinkling of damp | each way; they must be shaded for a few days from the 
moss is very useful. With very fine seeds it is best to sow | sun, until they are established. When large enough they 
on the surface, and press them slightly into the soil. We) can be potted in small pots, and kept until the proper sea- 
are convinced that one of the most frequent causes of | son for planting in the garden. 
failure is in sowing the seeds too deep, and seedsmen are Nature bountifully provides for the reproduction of 
unjustly censured, when the fault lies with the cultivator. | plants; the difficulty of multiplying by one method is 
The period of sowing has also much to do with success | counteracted by the ease with which it may be done by 
or failure; as a rule, we find the winter months, even | another. When plants are difficult to grow from cuttings, 
with all the appliances a skilful gardener can give, the | we generally find that they seed freely, thus giving ample 
most unsatisfactory ; many instances of which have come | means for increase. For instance, the much admired Cen- 
under our observation during our long experience. taureas, so extensively used for edgings, massing or bas- 
kets, which are difficult to grow from cuttings, are readily 
raised from seed; there are numerous varieties having the 
same nature, which all Florists and Amateurs soon dis- 
cover by experience. 
The germination of many hard seeds, especially among 
greenhouse or hot-house species, which are almost imper- 
vious to moisture, is greatly accelerated by pouring warm. 
water over them, or soaking them over night in camphore 
ated water, and then sowing. Thus treated, the young 
plants appear in a few weeks; but without such treatment 
they often lie dormant many months. The varieties of 
Acacia, Erythrina, Canna and Smilax are the most prom- 
inent of this class. 
For sowing seeds, shallow boxes 2 to 3 inches deep, and Climbers, for garden decorations, should be sown in 
covered with a light of glass and with open seams at the bot- | February and March, the earlier the better, as the display 
tom, so that the water can drain through quickly, are best. | in season will be in proportion to their early vigor. 
(These we keep in stock all ready for use.) The best soil Calceolaria and Primula are types of a class that 
is a mixture of equal parts of sand, leaf-mould, and light, | require entirely different treatment; to insure success they 
rich garden loam, which should be thoroughly mixed and should be sown in pots or boxes half filled with rough 
assed through a coarse sieve ; then fill your pots, pans, or | siftings; on this put two inches of fine compost, and sift 
ieaecn within half an inch of the rim; press the soil firmly | over this a top-dressing of the same material, using a fine 
andevenly. Ifthe soil is dry it is best to water freely a sieve. Sow the seed on the surface and press gently in, 
day or two before sowing the seed, to enable the surplus | using a flat surface. Sprinkle with a fine rose ; cover with. 
water to drain off. After they are sown cover slightly | a pane of glass, and keep shaded from the sun. The sur. 
with fine soil, carefully water with a fine rose or spray | face should be kept damp, and the pots or boxes kept in a 
dampener, to settle the soil. When they are designed to, moist, warm temperature. As soon as the seedlings are 
be grown in the house, the temperature should be as near strong enough they must be potted in small pots, in soil 
60 degrees as possible; place them in a light window fac- | prepared as before, and kept in the same situation until 
ing south or east. well established. 
ANNUALS. 
Annuals are plants that arrive at perfection, bloom, produce seed, and die the first season. Hardy Annuals 
ean be sown in the borders from April to June. Half-Hardy and Tender Annuals can be sown in March and 
April in shallow boxes, ete., and placed on a hot-bed; when the plants are large enough, transplant in acool frame 
near the glass to harden. In May, when the weather has become favorable, transplant in the borders; the seed may 
be sown in the open ground in May and June. 
Many annuals are very desirable for the greenhouse for winter-blooming, and must be sown in July or August. Of 
these the most important are Browallia, Candytuft, German Stocks, Lobelia, Mignonette, Schizanthus, Sweet Alyssum, 
and Dwarf Nasturtiums. Many varieties, as well as the above, may be sown in the fall and winter for blooming early 
in the spring, such as Acroclinium, Ageratum, Antirrhinum, Geranium, Dianthus, Linum, Mimulus, Myosotis, Pansy, 
Petunias, Phlox Drummondi, Salpiglossis, Salvia, Verbena, Vinea, and others which will be found in our full and 
complete list of the best leading varieties. 
BIENNIALS. 
Biennials are those that last two seasons; some of the varieties bloom the first year, and remain over winter, 
flowering again the second year and then die; a slight protection of leaves or coarse manure will be found beneficial. 
For summer and autumn flowering the seed should be sown in March and April, and treated the same as half-hardy 
annuals. Hardy kinds can be sown from April to September in the open border, and transplanted where they are 
intended to bloom the following year. 
PERENNIALS. 
Perennials do not flower until the second year, and the hardy varieties remain in the ground from year to year, 
and improve by age, forming large clumps or bushes, which are completely covered with their attractive flowers. 
They should be planted in the borders or beds where they are intended to remain permanently. 
The seed may be sown early in the spring with Annuals, or later in the summer in a cool and partially shaded situa- 
tion, and when large enough transplant to where they are to remain. 
The following are among the most desirable: Campanula, Foxglove, Hollyhock, Larkspur. Pinks, Sweet William, 
Wallflower, ete. 


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