BULSOUS BOOTS. 
THEIR NATURE AND TREATMENT 
Bugs are plants which belong to a particular division of the vegetable kingdom ; 
they are all, with scarcely a single exception, very ornamental, and hence desi- 
rable for the very large size of their flower in proportion to the entire plant, and 
for the brilliancy of their colors. By far the greater number of bulbs flower in the 
spring, and produce their flower stems immediately after they begin to grow ; and 
shortly after they have flowered they cease growing, and remain dormant and with- 
out leaves during the remainder of the year ; hence, almost all bulbs require to be 
planted in the autumn—a fact which most amateurs are apt to overlook, and fre- 
quently send their orders out of season. Bulbs require a free, dry and somewhat 
rich soil, into which the roots may penetrate freely. A bulb is essentially a bud, 
and contains within itself the germs of the leaves and flowers which are to be pro- 
duced the following season ; thus, in one sense, they are of more easy culture than 
any other class of plants, because the germ being previously formed, and the nour- 
ishment being provided in the body of the bulb, it is only necessary to supply heat 
and moisture to cause them to develop ; this is fully exemplified in the Hyacinth, 
Narcissus, Crocus, early Tulips, and some other bulbs, which can be flowered 
when placed over water in glasses or in wet moss. The Hyacinth is the especial 
favorite for forcing in glasses, and full directions for their management will be 
found under the head of Hyacinths. 
SOIL—The proper compost for Hyacinths, Tulips, Crown Imperials, Iris, 
Ranunculus, Anemones, Crocus, and most other bulbs, is the following: one-third 
sand, one-third well rotted cow manure and one-third good garden mould.* 
The Amaryllis require a richer loam, and Ixias and Gladiolus a soil rather more 
sandy than the general average. 
TIME OF PLANTING—The preferable season for planting all hardy bulbs, 
is from October to December; but they can be set out at any later time, as long as 
the bulbs remain sound. 
DEPTH AND DISTANCE—Hyacinth and Martagon, and other large Lilies 
and Pzonias, should be planted at the depth of four inches; Crown Imperials and 
Polyanthus Narcissus, five inches; Tulips, Double Narcissus, Jonquilles and Col- 
chicums, three inches; Bulbous Iris, Crocus, Arums, small Fritillarias, Gladiolus 
Byzantium and Snowdrops, two inches; Ranunculus and Anemones, one inch, 
always measuring from the top of bulb. The rows should be about ten inches 
apart, and the roots to be placed from four to six inches apart in the rows, accord- 
ing to their size. 
TAKING UP AND PRESERVING—Take up Bulbous Roots about a 
month after the blossom is completely over, in the following manner: When the 
plants put on a yellowish decayed appearance, take up the roots, cut off the stem 
and foliage within an inch of the bulbs, but leave the fibres, etc., attached to them ; 
spread them in an airy room for two or three weeks to dry, after which wrap each 
root carefully in paper, (as the air is very injurious to bulbs,) or cover them in sand 
perfectly dry. ; 
Bulbs intended for blooming in pots during the winter season, should be planted 
during the months of October and November, and be left exposed to the open air 
(covered with a few inches of tan or soil) until they begin to freeze, and then be 
placed in the greenhouse or a room where fire is usually made. They will need 
moderate occasional watering until they begin to grow, when they should have an 
abundance of air in mild weather, and plenty of water from the saucers whilst in a 
growing state ; and should be exposed as much as possible to the sun, air and light, 
to prevent the leaves from growing too long or becoming yellow. 
For the convenience of purchasers, this compost is kept on hand dering the season for plantingjbulbs. 
