2 DREER’S DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF BULBS. 
2ee WY ACANTE, 
Among hardy bulbs the Hyacinth stands (deservedly so) foremost on the list ; it 
is not only a general favorite for the garden, but has become exceedingly popular 
as a winter flower, from the facility with whieh it may be forced into bloom either 
in pots or glasses filled with water ; nothing can be more delightful either for beauty 
or fragrance than a stand of these lovely flowers in the parlor or drawing-room, 
during the winter months. 
THE TREATMENT OF HYACINTHS IN POTS. 
For the growth of Hyacinths in pots, prepare one-half decomposed, friable turfy 
loam with the remainder, equal parts of well rotted manure, leaf-mould and river 
sand well incorporated together, and should, when so prepared, be used in a toler- 
ably dry state (free from adhesiveness), so as to admit of a firm pressure without 
injury. The most favorable season for planting is September, and onwards. The 
size of pots is regulated by the space or convenience for placing them ; when lim- 
ited, and a rich massive effect is wished for, those of six or eight inches diameter 
are recommended, in which three or four bulbs may be placed, but where more 
convenience is had, a succession of single or double bulbs in smaller pots may be 
admitted—two bulbs in each is very effective, and generally preferred ; the colors 
of such may be regulated according to taste. In potting, each bulb should remain 
one-third above the surface of the soil, and the base of each bulb should rest upon 
a strata of clean river sand at about three-quarters of an inch lower than the rim 
of each pot, to admit of a judiciously regulated amount of water during the season 
of bloom. After potting place them where intended to remain, upon a ary surface 
of ashes or sharp gravel, in the rotation of their intended periods of bloom, (each 
later potting plunged beyond the previous ones,) and thus arranged, water the 
whole well to imbed the bulbs firmly within the soil, allowing them to remain until 
the bulbs and surfaces are again dry (for one or two days); then cover the whole 
over to the depth of three or four inches with half-dried tan, sawdust, sand or soil, 
for six or eight weeks, in which position the preparatory root-growth is made, 
necessary to a vigorous development of their flowerscapes. After the period ad- 
verted to, less or more, the first potted bulbs may be taken up, the soil and sediment 
carefully brushed off, and removed to a gentle hot-bed, or a warm genial green- 
house or room where the bloom will progressively expand, care being taken to 
screen the leaf-growth made in darkness for a few days, and when an unusually 
warm spring requires that the covering of tan or soil should be removed from the 
general stock, the various batches or pottings may be removed to cool pits or 
frames, east or north aspect €air being admitted early in fine weather and closed 
early), until required for the forcing house. A short difference of a week or fort- 
night between the periods of potting will produce a corresponding difference in, 
the periods of bloom. ~ 
METHOD OF BLOOMING HYACINTHS IN THE WINTER SEASON, IN GLASSES. 
For this purpose Single Hyacinths, and such as are designated earliest among 
the Double, are to be preferred. Single Hyacinths are generally held in less esti- 
mation than Double ones; their colors, however, are more vivid, and their bells, 
though smaller, are more numerous ; some of the sorts are exquisitely beautiful ; 
they are preferable for flowering in winter to most of the Double ones, as they 
bloom two or three weeks earlier and are very sweet scented. 
Hyacinths intended for glasses should be placed in them during October and 
November, the glasses being previously filled with pure water, so that the bottom - 
of the bulb may just touch the water; then place them for the first three or four 
weeks in a dark closet, box or cellar, to promote the. shooting of the fibres, which 
should fill the glasses before exposing them to the sun, after which expose them to 
the light and sun gradually. If kept too light and warm at first, and before there 
is sufficient fibre, they will rarely flower well. They will blow without any sun, 
but the colors of the flowers will be inferior. The water should be changed as it 
becomes impure; draw the rcots entirely out of the glasses, rinse off the fibres in 
clean water, and wash the inside of the glass well. Care should be taken that the 
water does not freeze, as it would not only burst the glass but cause the fibres to 
ecay. Whether the water is hard or soft, is not a matter of much consequence— 
oft is preferable—but must be perfectly clear to show the fibres to advantage. 
