HARDY SPRING-FLOWERING 
BULBOUS ROOTS, 
Cheir Dature and €reatment. 
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PLANT EG FROW OCTOBER TO DECEWERER. 
Bulbs belong to a particular division of the vegetable kingdom; they are all, with scarcely a 
single exception, very ornamental, and hence desirable for the very large size of their flower in 
proportion to the entire plant, and for the brilliancy of their colors. By far the greater number 
of bulbs flower in the spring, and produce their flower stems immediately after they begin to 
grow; and shortly after they have flowered they cease growing and remain dormant and without 
leaves during the remainder of the year; hence, almost all bulbs require to be planted in the 
autumn—a fact which most amateurs are apt to overlook, and frequently send their orders out of 
season. They require a free, dry and somewhat rich soil, into which the roots may penetrate 
freely. A bulb is essentially a bud, and contains within itself the germs of the leaves and flowers 
which are to be produced the following season; thus, in one sense, they are of more easy culture 
than any other class of plants, because the germ being previously formed, and the nourishment 
being provided in the body of the bulb, it is only necessary to supply heat and moisture to cause 
them to develop; this is fully exemplified in the Hyacinth, Narcissus, Crocus, early Tulips, and 
some other bulbs, which can be flowered when placed over water in glasses or in wet moss. The 
Hyacinth is the especial favorite for forcing in glasses, and full directions for their management 
will be found under the head of Hyacinths. 
SOIL.—The proper compost for Hyacinths, Tulips, Crown Imperials, Iris, Ranunculus, Ane- 
mones, Crocus, and most other bulbs, is the following: one-third sand, one-third well rotted cow 
manure, and one-third good garden mould. 
TIME OF PLANTING.—The preferable season for planting all hardy bulbs, is from October 
to December; but they can be set out at any later time, so long as the bulbs remain sound. 
DEPTH AND DISTANCE.—Hyacinths, large Lilies and Pzonias, should be planted at the 
depth of four inches; Crown Imperials and Polyanthus Narcissus, five inches; Tulips, Double 
Narcissus, Jonquils and Colchicums, three inches; Bulbous Iris, Crocus, emall Fritillarias, Gladi- 
olus Byzantinus and Snowdrops, two inches; Ranunculus and Anemones, one inch; always 
measuring from top of the bulb. The rows should be about ten inches apart, and the bulbs to be 
placed from four to eight inches apart in the rows, according to their size. As the cold weather 
approaches, give the bed a good covering of leaves, hay, old manure or tan, to prevent the frost 
from penetrating to the bulbs. Early in the spring, as soon as the shoots are pushing through it, 
the covering should be carefully removed, and the earth slightly stirred with a garden fork. 
TAKING UP AND PRESERVING.—Take up Bulbous Roots about a month after the blos- 
som is completely over, in the following manner: when the plants put on a yellowish decayed 
appearance, take up the roots, cut off the stem and foliage within an inch of the bulbs, but leave 
the fibres, etc., attached to them; spread them in an airy room for two or three weeks to dry, 
after which wrap each root carefully in paper, (ag the air is very injurious to bulbs,) or cover 
them in sand perfectly dry. 
Bulbs intended for blooming in pots during the winter season, should be planted during the 
months of October and November, and be left exposed to the open air (covered with a few inches 
of tan or soil) until they begin to freeze, and then be placed in the greenhouse or a room where 
fire is usually made. They will need, occasionally, moderate watering until they begin to grow, 
when they should have an abundance of air in mild weather, and plenty of water from the 
saucers whilst in a growing state; and should be exposed as much as possible to the sun, air and 
light to prevent the Icaves from growing too long or becoming yellow. 
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