Bulbous Roots. 
THEIR NATURE AND TREATMENT. 
Butss are plants which belong to a particular division of the vegetable kingdom; they 
are all, with scarcely a single exception, very ornamental, and hence desirable, for the very 
large size of their flower in proportion to the entire plant, and for the brilliancy of their 
colors. By far the greater number of bulbs flower in the spring, and produce their flower 
stems immediately after they begin to grow; and shortly after they have flowered, they cease 
growing, and remain dormant, and without leaves during the remainder of the year; hence, 
almost all bulbs require to be planted in the autumn—a fact which most amateurs are apt to 
overlook, and frequently send their orders out of season. Bulbs require a free, dry and some- 
what rich soil, into which the roots may penetrate freely. A bulb is essentially a bud, and 
contains within itself the germs of the leaves and flowers which are to be produced the follow- 
ing season ; thus, in one sense they are of more easy culture than any other class of plants, 
because the germ being previously formed, and the nourishment being provided in the body of 
the bulb, it is only necessary to supply heat and moisture to cause them to develop—this is 
fully exemplified in the Hyacinth, Narcissus, Crocus, early Tulips, and some other bulbs, - 
which can be flowered when placed over water, in glasses or in wet moss. The Hyacinth is 
the especial favorite for forcing in glasses, and full directions for their management will be 
found under the head of Hyacinths. 
SOiL—The proper compost for Hydpinths, Tulips, Crown Imperials, Iris, Ranunculus, 
Anemones, Crocus, and most other bulbs, is the following: one-third sand, one-third well 
rotted cow manure, and one-third good garden mould.* 
The Amaryllis, require a richer loam, and Ixias and Gladiolus a soil rather more sandy 
than the general average. 
TIME OF PLANTING—The preferable season for planting all hardy bulbs, is from October 
to December; but they can be set out at any later time, as long as the bulbs remain sound. 
DEPTH AND DISTANCE—Hyacinth, and Martagon, and other large Lillies, and Peonias, 
should be planted at the depth of four inches: Crown Imperials and Polyanthus Narcissus, 
five inches; Tulips, Double Narcissus, Jonquilles and Colchicums, three inches; Bulbous Iris, 
Crocus, Arums, small Fritillarias, Gladiolus Byzantium and Snowdrops, two inches; Ranun- 
culus and Anemones, one inch, always measuring from the top of bulb. The rows should:be 
about ten inches apart, and the roots to be placed from four to six inches apart in the rows, 
according to their size. 
TAKING UP AND PRESERVING—Take up Bulbous Roots about a month:after the blossom 
is completely over, in the following manner :—when the plants put on a yellowish decayed 
appearance, take up the roots, cut off the stem and foliage within an inch of the bulbs, but 
leave the fibres, etc. attached to them; spread them in an airy room for two or three weeks to 
dry, after which wrap each root carefully in paper, (as the air is very injurious to bulbs,) or 
cover them in sand perfectly dry. 
Bulbs intended for blooming in pots during the winter season, should be planted during ° 
the months of October and November, and be left exposed to the open air (covered with a few 
inches of tan or soil,) until they begin to freeze, and then be placed in the green-house or a 
room where fire is usually made. They will need moderate occasional watering until they 
begin to grow, when they should have an abundance of air in mild weather, and plenty of 
water from the saucers, whilst in a growing state; and should be exposed as much as possible 
to the sun, air and light, to prevent the leaves from growing too long, or becoming yellow. 
*For the convenience of purchasers, this compost is kept on hand during the season for planting bulbs.. 
