Pe DREER’S DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF BULBS. 
Che Hyacinth. 
Among hardy bulbs the Hyacinth stands (deservedly so) foremost on the list, it is not 
only a general favorite for the garden, but has become exceedingly popular as a winter flower, 
from the facility with which it may be forced into bloom either in pots, or glasses, filled with 
water; nothing can be more delightful either for beauty or fragrance, than a stand of these 
lovely flowers in the parlor or drawing-room, during the winter months. 
’ THE TREATMENT OF HYACINTHS IN POTS. 
For the growth of Hyacinths in pots, prepare one-half decomposed friable turfy loam, with 
the remainder, equal parts of well rotted manure, leaf-mould and river-sand, well incorporated 
together, and should, when so prepared be used in a tolerably dry state (free from adhesiveness, ) 
so as to admit of a firm pressure without injury. The most favorable season for planting is 
September, and onwards. The size of pots is regulated by the space or convenience for placing 
them ; when limited, and a rich massive effect 1s wished for, those of six or eight inches diam- 
eter are recommended, in which three or four bulbs may be placed, but where more convenience 
is had, a succession of single or double bulbs in smaller pots may be admitted—two bulbs in 
each is very effective, and generally preferred; the colors of such may be regulated according 
to taste. In potting, each bulb should remain one-third above the surface of the soil, and the 
base of each bulb should rest upon a strata of clean river-sand at about three-quarters of an 
inch lower than the rim of each pot, to admit of a judiciously regulated amount of water during 
the season of bloom. After potting, place them where intended to remain, upon a dry surface 
of ashes or sharp gravel, in the rotation of their intended periods of bloom (each later potting 
plunged beyond the previous ones,) and thus arranged, water the whole well to imbed the bulbs 
firmly within the soil, allowing them to remain until the bulbs and surfaces are again dry (for 
one or two days ;) then cover the whole over to the depth of three or four inches with half- 
dried tan, sawdust, sand or soil, for six or eight weeks, in which position the preparatory root- 
growth is made, necessary to a vigorous development of their flowerscapes. After the period 
adverted to, less or more, the first potted bulbs may be taken up, the soil and sediment care- 
fully brushed off, and removed to a gentle hot-bed, or a warm genial greenhouse or room where 
the bloom will progressively expand, care being taken to screen the leaf-growth made in dark- 
ness for a few days, and when an unusually warm spring requires that the covering of tan or 
soil should be removed from the general stock, the various batches, or pottings may be removed 
to cool pits or frames, east or north aspect (air being admitted early in fine weather, and closed 
early,) until required for the forcing house. A short difference of a week or fortnight between 
the periods of potting will produce a corresponding difference in the periods of bloom. 
METHOD OF BLOOMING HYACINTHS IN THE WINTER SEASON, IN GLASSES. 
For this purpose Single Hyacinths, and such as are designated earliest among the Double, 
are to be preferred. Single Hyacinths are generally held in less estimation than Double ones ; 
their colors, however, are more vivid, and their bells, though smaller, are more numerous; 
some of the sorts are exquisitely beautiful; they are preferable for flowering in winter to most 
of the Double ones, as they bloom two or three weeks earlier and are very sweet scented. 
Hyacinths intended for glasses should be placed in them during October and November, 
the glasses being previously filled with pure water, so that the bottom of the bulb may just 
_ touch the water; then place them for the first three or four weeks in a dark closet, box or 
cellar, to promote the shooting of the fibres, which should fill the glasses before exposing them 
to the sun, after which expose them to the light and sun gradually. If kept too light and 
warm at first, and before there is sufficient fibre, they will rarely flower well. They will blow 
without any sun, but the colors of the flowers will be inferior. The water should be changed 
as it becomes impure; draw the roots entirely out of the glasses, rinse off the fibres in clean 
water, and wash the inside of the glass well. Care should be taken that the water does not 
freeze, as it would not only burst the glass but cause the fibres to decay. Whether the water 
is hard or soft, is not a matter of much consequence—soft is preferable—but must be perfectly 
elear, to show the fibres to advantage. 
