Established 1838. AUTUMN, 1895 Incorporated 1892. 



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DREER'S CATALOGUE 



OF 



Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, 



Lilies, and other Bulbs 



Seeds and Plants for Winter and Spring 



Flowering. 



Bulbs for Autumn Planting. 



General Cultural Directions. 



THERE is no commonplace annual garden task more satisfactory than the planting out or potting at this season of the 

 Dutch Bulbs, which are now at hand. These are bulbs of few families, indeed, but of infinite variety of form and 

 coloring, many of dazzling splendor. They flower, too, at a season when bright flowers are most acceptable. Even the 

 readers of horticultural journals sometimes neglect their opportunities, and it seems well to remind the negligent that now, 

 and not springtime, is the season for planting Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils, Crocuses, Scillas, Snowdrops, Snowflakes, 



julbous Irises, etc. With no other material can we secure 

 such a wealth of charming flowers with so little trouble and 

 such slight expenditure, while all of those mentioned are 

 ff\ hardy, and if not forced, will increase from year to year. 



|\ Still, it is not well to depend on old Hyacinths and Tulips, 



| ; grown even in the open, under ordinary conditions. Additions 



should be made each year to the stock of these, for they 

 usually degenerate unless carefully cultivated. 



PLANT IN OPEN GROUND. For outdoor planting, 

 as a general rule the bulbs should be planted in October and 

 November, so that the roots may make a good growth before 

 the cold weather sets in, but they can be set out late if the 

 bulbs remain sound, tops have not started, and the ground is 

 not frozen. They require a moderately rich soil that has 

 been well manured for previous crops, or else apply old cow 

 manure or bone dust; fresh manure is injurious to bulbs. 

 The soil must be well drained ; standing water is injurious, 

 and no good results can be obtained without free drainage. 

 A small quantity of sand or fine coal ashes at the base of 

 each bulb when planted in stiff soil will be beneficial. In 

 planting, the bulbs should be placed from an inch to 4 inches 

 below the surface, according to the size of the bulb. 



When the ground freezes hard in this latitude after 

 Christmas the bed should be covered with three or four inches 

 of coarse litter, which should be removed when the bu.bs 

 begin to push through the surface. Too early and heavy 

 covering starts the tops prematurely, which are frequently 

 injured in March by freezing and thawing. After flowering, 

 when the tops put on a yellowish, decayed appearance, take 

 up the roots, cut off the stem and foliage within an inch of the 

 bulbs, but leave the fibres, etc., attached to them; spread 

 them in an airy room for two or three weeks to dry, then 

 wrap each root carefully in paper, as the air is injurious 

 to bulbs, or cover them with dry t and. If the beds are wanted 

 for late spring plantings, take up the bulbs, tops ar.d roots, 

 and heel in by covering entire until the bulb matures. 

 FOR BLOOMING IN POTS. Bulbs intended for blooming 

 in pots during the winter should be planted during October and 

 November in pots, pans or boxes, and be left in the open air, 

 covered with a few inches of tan or soil, until the earth begins to 

 freeze, and then be placed in a cool greenhouse, cellar or room, 

 at a temperature of 50 , in a very dark place. They will need, occasion- 

 ally, moderate watering after they are brought inside. The pots, pans or 

 boxes maybe placed at once after potting in a cool, dark cellar, where 

 potatoes are kept, watering well and covering the same as above. The 

 wholesuccess of pot culture depends upon getting the roots well estab- 

 lished in the pots, at a low temperature of say 40 to 50 , before you begin 

 to force the tops at 6o° to 70 . After this the bloom is easily developed by 

 giving light and water, and one can have a supply of bloom from Christ- 

 mas until after Easter by regulating the time. 



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