DREER'S DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF BULBS. 



Among hardy bulbs the Hyacinth stands (deservedly so) foremost on the list ; it 

 is not only a general favorite for the garden, but has become exceedingly popular 

 as a winter flower, from the facility with which it may be forced into bloom, either 

 in pots or glasses filled with water ; nothing can be more delightful, either for beauty 

 or fragrance than a stand of these lovely flowers, in the parlor or drawing-room, 

 during the winter months. 



THE TREATMENT OF HYACINTHS IN POTS. 



For the growth of Hyacinths in pots, prepare one-half decomposed, friable turfy 

 loam with the remainder, equal parts of well rotted manure, leaf mould and river 

 sand, well incorporated together, and should, when so prepared, be used in a toler- 

 ably dry state ("free from adhesiveness), so as to admit of a firm pressure without 

 injury. The most favorable planting season for early bloom, is September, 

 and for a succession, at intervals up to January. The size of pots is regulated 

 by the space or convenience for placing them ; when limited, and a rich massive 

 effect is wished for, those of six or eight inches in diameter are recommended, in 

 which three or four bulbs may be placed, but where more convenience is had, 

 a succession of single or double bulbs in smaller pots may be admitted— two bulbs 

 in each is very effective, and generally preferred ; the colors of such may be regu- 

 lated according to taste. In potting, each bulb should remain one-third above the 

 surface of the soil, and the base of each bulb should rest upon a strata of clean river 

 sand at about three-quarters of an inch lower than the rim of each pot, to admit of 

 a judiciously regulated amount of water during the season of bloom. After pot- 

 ting place them where intended to remain, upon a dry surface of ashes or sharp 

 gravel, in the rotation of their intended periods of bloom, (each later potting plung- 

 ed beyond the previous ones,) and thus arranged, water the whole well to imbed 

 the bulbs firmly within the soil, allowing them to remain until the bulbs and sur- 

 faces are again dry (for one or two daysj ; then cover the whole over to the depth 

 of three or four inches with half dried tan, sawdust, sand or soil, for six or eight 

 weeks, in which position the preparatory root-growth is made, necessary to a vig- 

 orous development of their fiowerscapes. After the period adverted to,less or more, 

 the first potted bulbs may be taken up, the soil and sediment carefully brushed off, 

 and removed to a gentle hot-bed, or a warm genial greenhouse or room where the. 

 bloom will progressively expand, care being taken to screen the leaf -growth made 

 in darkness for a few days, and when an unusually warm spring requires that the 

 covering of tan or soil should be removed from the general stock, the various 

 batches or pottings may be removed to cool pits or frames, east or north aspect 

 Cair being admitted early in fine weather and closed early), until required for the 

 forcing house. A short difference of a week or fortnight between the periods of 

 potting will produce a corresponding difference in the periods of bloom. 



METHOD OF BLOOMING HYACINTHS IN THE WINTER SEASON IN GLASSES. 



For this purpose Single Hyacinths, and such as are designated earliest among 

 the Double, are to be preferred. Single Hyacinths are generally held in less esti- 

 mation than Double ones; their colors, however, are more vivid, and their bells, 

 though smaller, are more numerous; some of the sorts are exquisitely beautiful ; 

 they are preferable for flowering in winter to most of the Double ones, as they 

 bloom two or three weeks earlier and are very sweet scented. 



Hyacinths intended for glasses should be placed in them during October and 

 November, the glasses being previously filled with pure water, so that the bottom 

 of the bulb may just touch the water; then place them for the first three or four- 

 weeks in a dark closet, box or cellar, to promote the shooting of the fibres, which 

 should fill the glasses before exposing them to the sun, after which expose them to 

 the light and sun gradually. If kept too light and warm at first, and before there 

 is sufficient fibre, they will rarely flower well. They will blow without any sun, 

 but the colors of the flowers will be inferior The water should be changed as it 

 becomes impure ; draw the roots entirely out of the glasses, rinse off the fibres in 

 clean water, and wash the inside of the glass well. Care should be taken that the 

 water does not freeze, as it would not only burst the glass, but cause the fibres to 

 decay. Whether the water is hard or soft, is not a matter of much consequence — 

 soft is preferable— but must be perfectly clear to show the fibres to advantage. 



