JAM-MAKING 35 
fruit will do. It is true that a great deal in the way of 
small and badly formed fruit may be used up, but it 
must be in good condition, not over ripe or in any way 
rotten. Flavour also depends a good deal on the way 
the fruit is cooked, for, if it is steamed instead of 
being rapidly boiled it is likely to destroy the flavour. 
Good colour depends very much upon the boiling, and 
also upon the amount of sugar used. Where jam is 
intended for commercial purposes good colour is a most 
important essential. In jams such as strawberry, black- 
berry, gooseberry, etc., it is a great mistake to break 
the fruit, as it is far more appetising to look at, and in 
every way better, if the fruit is kept whole. 
