WE ARE WARNED IN VAIN 91 



some six miles broad, running from north to soutli for a dis- 

 tance of over seventeen miles. On the east, as on the west, 

 volcanic debris surrounded the base of the mountain ; but our 

 course now led us back to the valley we had recently left, which 

 was there more practicable. The scenery became more and 

 more dreary as we advanced. The barren ground was strewn 

 with gleaming, chiefly red and green, volcanic debris, pumice- 

 stone, huge blocks of blistered lava, and here and there 

 pieces of petrified wood. There was no regular path, and we 

 had to pick our way carefully amongst the scoriae, some of 

 which was as sharp as knives. But to-day we were to be 

 rewarded for all our arduous struggles and terrible privations, 

 if not by reaching, at least by coming in sight of, the long- 

 sought lake gleaming far away in the distance. 



In the morning the Count had come upon two herds of 

 elephants, the first consisting of eight females and as many 

 young ones, and the second of four females only. He spared 

 the first on account of the young ones, but he shot the largest 

 of the second group. As we always took tlie tusks on with us, 

 we halted now, and whilst we were waiting, a native came down 

 to us from the mountain. Not knowing anything of our pre- 

 sence in the neighbourhood, he had at first watched us from a 

 distance, but at last he ventured to join us. From him we 

 learnt that the lake was not much further off, but, shaking his 

 head, he asked what we meant to do with our cattle there, 

 for there was not a blade of grass near it. The only answer 

 to this was an unbelieving smile, and we happil}^ resumed 

 our march, for whoever heard of a lake with no green grass 

 about it ? 



But with every step the scenery grew more and more 

 dreary and deserted looking, and very soon the words of the 

 native came back to us, for if the approaches to the lake were 

 so barren and naked, we might well tremble for the fate of our 



