306 RETURN FROM LAKE BARINGO TO THE COAST 



were deeper pools in which some hippopotami were wallowing, 

 and Count Teleki shot one, which, however, he lost. The course 

 of the Kaya is marked by a fringe of acacias, with fresh green 

 luxuriant foliage, contrasting vividly with the monotonous 

 yellow steppe. Thomson and Bishop Hannington both camped 

 very near where we did, and Dr. J. Fischer crossed the river a 

 little further north. As already stated, one of our men had 

 been with Dr. Fischer, and it was from him that we obtained 

 the information given above about the Kaya. 



Leaving the banks of the Kaya, our route was now a con- 

 tinuous ascent in an easterly direction, and we noted the gradual 

 transition from volcanic to metamorphic formations, great slabs 

 and blocks of gneiss occurring here and there. Numerous herds 

 of gnus were grazing on the grass-clad but treeless slopes of 

 the Ulu mountains as we passed, and we also came upon three 

 rhinoceroses, one of which the Count brought down. 



We camped by the shallow, rock-encumbered channel of a 

 stream, with water, some of which tasted quite brackish, in a 

 few pools only. 



The Wakamba, whose settlements we were now approach- 

 ing, carefully watch their frontier to guard against surprise 

 by marauding parties of Wakikuyu or Masai, and five warriors, 

 armed with bows, arrows, and swords only, soon appeared in 

 camp to inquire whence we came and whither we were going. 

 Satisfied on these points, they went off again. 



The next morning we scaled the ridge, on the slope of which 

 we had camped, and then descended into a horseshoe-shaped 

 valley open to the south but completely shut in on the north, 

 where numerous plantations and herds of cattle, the rising 

 smoke from kraals, and the trodden j)aths bore witness to 

 our having reached a well-populated district ; and soon numbers 

 of natives came out to meet us. Expecting, as usual, to find a 

 caravan of half-starved people, they had brought with them 



