Established 1838. 



SIXTY=SECOND YEAR. 



Incorporated 1892. 



DREER'S 



GARDEN CALENDAR 



FOR 1900. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Should be covered the year through with a growing crop. Something should always be beginning, coming on, ready for use, and 

 passing. In winter it should be a cover crop to keep the soil in heart and to prevent the atmosphere from absorbing its richness, 

 or it may be Spinach, Kale, Parsnips, or Turnips, covered lightly for protection. If practicable, the garden should have a warm 

 and southeasterly exposure. But when the ground slopes to the north and west it is important to have it located on the sunny 

 side of an orchard or buildings. The most desirable situation possible should be set apart for the kitchen garden, as the exposure 

 has much to do with the early maturity of the crops. The soil must be in a friable stale to secure the prompt vegetation of the 

 seeds and the proper growth of the plants, and should be well drained, thoroughly trenched, and enriched by a judicious applica- 

 tion of manure. A hot-bed will be found a great convenience and help in starting certain plants early in the spring and cold 

 frame for wintering over plants. For those who desire to make either hot-bed or cold frame we give information below, which 

 will enable them to construct either at little trouble or expense. The culture of Vegetables is exhaustively treated in our new 

 book, "Open=Air Vegetables." (See page 193 ) 



Rotation of Crops. — A rotation of crops is as essential in vegetable gardening as in farming, as different plants appro- 

 priate different ingredients from the soil. Care should be taken that deep-rooted plants, such as Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, etc., are 

 not planted successive seasons on the same soil, but should be followed Ijy those plants whose roots extend but little below the 

 surface, such as Onions, Lettuce, Cabbage, Spinach, etc.; plants of the Brassica, or Cabbage tribe, are apt to become diseased at 

 the roots (club-rooted, as it is termed) if too frequently planted in the same ground. 



Our Seeds cire Tested.— ^ e will not under any circumstances send out seeds of doubtful character, and for the pro- 

 tection of our customers we invariably make a thorough and critical test of all seeds received from our growers, and they must be 

 of the highest degree of germination. During the summer we also conduct extensive purity tests at our Trial Grounds at 

 Riverton, N. J., where an outdoor test is made of all varieties. Thus we know the quality of our seeds, both as to their 

 germination and purity. 



HOW TO MAKE COLD FRAME AND HOT=BED. 



The Cold Frame. — The function of the cold frame sash is 

 to winter plants of cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce, to ward off cold 

 winds, to keep the ground clear of snow, and in the spring to increase 

 the feeble heat of slanting sunbeams, and thus to foster pknt growth. 

 It should stand in a warm and sheltered spot, on well drained land, 

 and have a southern exposure. In constructing it, use boards one 

 inch thick, making the back of frame one foot and front six inches 

 ""• high, the length to be as desired, using standard 3x6 feet sash ar- 

 ranged as illustrated herewith. The soil of bed should be rich, 

 easily worked and well drained. Rotted sod is best basis for such soil, and a heap of sod should always be on hand in a con- 

 venient place. On mild days air should be admitted in order to keep the plants in a dormant state, care being taken not to freeze 

 thein ; this will prepare them for early setting out in spring. During cold weather the frames should be covered with mats, or 

 have a thick covering of straw or hay during the nights. 



The Hot-bed is usually made ready in February or March in the latitude of Philadelphia, and should be located in a 

 sunny part of the garden facing the South, and .should have the protection of a wall, a fence or hedge at back. The sash, which 

 are 3 X 6 feet, can he purchased of us ready made and glazed ; the sides and back can be made of rough lumber. Begin by dig- 

 ging a trench two feet deep and a few inches short of the width and length of sash to be used, line the sides with beards about 

 one inch thick, making the back extend 18 inches above the soil level and the front 12 inches, in order to give proper slant to 

 sash, so as to admit the sunlight, and also that the rain may flow off freely. The framework should be banked up on the outside 

 with coarse manure, straw or litter, in order to keep out the cold air. The manure to be used should be thoroughly forked 

 over about one week before making the bed, and a sprinkling of hot water 

 made to hasten fermentation. In about a week, when heat has gone 

 down to 95° to 100°, the manure is ready for the bed. After tramping 

 the prepared manure firmly in the hot-bed to a depth of one foot, cover it with 

 at least four inches of clean, well rotted soil, and put on the sashes. Place a 

 thermometer in the Ijed and await results. In the course of two or three days 

 the bed may be trusted with the seeds. The thermometer ought not to register 

 much over 70°; if the heat is greater it is better to delay planting for a few days. 

 Ttie night heat should not fall below 50°. Shutters, mats, carpets or litter will 

 make it easy to keep young plants warm at night. Do not try to raise Egg 

 Plants, Peppers and Tomatoes in the same hot-bed with Cabbage and other half- 

 hardy plants that require air every mild day ; by such management one or the 

 other must suffer — heat being the principal requisite of tender plants and air 

 that of the more hardy varieties. 

 2 



CoLu Frame. 



