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RESIDENCE AT CARACCAS. 149 
part of the town, from which they had an exten- 
sive view of the mountain-plain, the ridge of the 
Gallipano, and the summit of the Silla. It was the 
season of drought, and the conflagrations intended to 
improve the pasturage produced the most singular 
effects when seen at night. 
They experienced the greatest kindness from all 
classes of the inhabitants, and more especially from. 
the captain-general of the province, M. de Guevara 
Vascongelos. Caraccas being situated on the con- 
tinent, and its population less mutable than that of 
the islands, the national manners had not under- 
gone so material a change. Notwithstanding the 
increase of the blacks, says Humboldt, at Caraccas 
and the Havannah, we seem to be nearer Cadiz. 
and the United States than in any other part of 
the New World. There was nothing to be seen of 
the cold and assuming air so common in Europe ; 
on the contrary, conviviality, candour, uniform 
cheerfulness, and politeness of address, character- 
ized. the natives of Spanish origin. The travellers 
found in several families a taste for instruction, 
some knowledge of French and Italian literature, 
and a particular predilection for music. But there 
was a total deficiency of scientific attainments ; nor 
had the simplest of all the physical sciences, botany, 
a single cultivator. Previous to 1806 there were no 
printing-offices in Caraccas. 
Believing that in a country which presents such 
enchanting views, and exhibits such a profusion of 
natural productions, he should find many persons 
well acquainted with the surrounding mountains, 
Humboldt yet failed to discover one individual who 
had visited the summit of the Silla. But the go- 
